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segunda-feira, 12 de julho de 2010

Poetic Synesthesia : Ode to a Nightingale by John Keats/ Poética Sinestesia: Ode a um Rouxinol de John Keats

Poetry fragment. For complete poetry/information go to John Keats webpage





While feeling the senses of scent and taste, I see the written lines of the dead poet, I hear his whispering fragrant voice in the nocturnal darkness and  an aromatic breath goes deeper in my  olfaction, warms some dewy drops on my skin and the nightingale kisses me, the soul... touches me, my senses, awakes me, all of me, into the perfume of the poetry.
Sense it!Feel it!
 

 
"...tender is the night,
And haply the Queen-Moon is on her throne,
Cluster'd around by all her starry Fays;
But here there is no light,
Save what from heaven is with the breezes blown
Through verdurous glooms and winding mossy ways.

I cannot see what flowers are at my feet,
Nor what soft incense hangs upon the boughs,
But, in embalmed darkness, guess each sweet
Wherewith the seasonable month endows
The grass, the thicket, and the fruit-tree wild;
White hawthorn, and the pastoral eglantine;
Fast fading violets cover'd up in leaves;
And mid-May's eldest child,
The coming musk-rose, full of dewy wine,
The murmurous haunt of flies on summer eves.



No sentir a sensação dos cheiros e dos aromas, vejo nas linhas escritas do poeta morto, o som da sua sussurante voz perfumada na escuridão brilhante, e um hálito profundamente oloroso penetra no meu olfato, aquece as gotas de minha pele orvalhada e o rouxinol beija-me a alma, toca-me os sentidos, desperta-me  para o perfume da poesia.
Sinestesie-se!




"...suave é a noite
E talvez a Rainha Lua esteja em seu trono,
cercadas por suas fadas estelares,
Mas aqui não há luz
Senão aquela que do céu com as brisas sopra
Pelas glaucas trevas e sendas sinuosas de musgo.

Não vejo que flores estão aos meus pés,
Nem qual suave incenso dos ramos exala
Mas, na treva embalsamada, desvelo o aroma doce
que cada mês regala
A relva, a coifa, e as frutíferas árvores silvestres;
Branco pilriteiro, e madressilva pastoral;
Fast fading violets cover'd up in leaves;
And mid-May's eldest child,
The coming musk-rose, full of dewy wine,
The murmurous haunt of flies on summer eves.




sexta-feira, 23 de abril de 2010

World Book DAY: Top 5 PERFUME livros Coffee Table / Top 5 PERFUME Coffee Table Books






Hoje é Dia Mundial do Livro, criado a partir de uma homenagem aos renomados e imortais escritores Miguel de Cervantes e William Shakespeare e, como amante dos livros, principalmente os de perfumes, eu não poderia deixar de lado minha homenagem a esse dia fundamental para a conscientização da importância dos livros, dos escritores e do ato prazeroso ato da leitura através de um post bem especial sobre livros e perfumes: os 5 livros "MUST HAVE" para desfrutar a beleza do legado perfumístico para a humanidade.  "PERFUME Coffee Table Books".

Há poucos livros de perfumes no mercado editorial e, os que estão disponíveis, estão a maioria em livrarias do exterior ou, virtualmente, no Amazon. A intenção aqui não é falar dos melhores livros de perfumes, mas os essenciais perfumes no formato "coffee table", que têm a vantagem de trazer ao leitor o deslumbre que é conhecer a história da perfumaria e, como ela evolui belamente através dos séculos. Esse formato é como folhear um livro de arte, com imagens únicas, sentimentos inesquecíveis que nascem a cada olhar. São livros para serem lidos em um momento zen, descompromissado com qualquer agito do dia a dia. São para aquele momento que você quer sentir o cheiro do mundo cheirando o próprio livro. Desfrute desse momento de puro deleite, tomando um Starbuck ou aquele tradicional café expresso bem delicioso e celebre o dia mundial do livro todos os dias, com o luxo atemporal da perfumaria.


***

Today is World Book Day, date that was created to homage the renowned and imortal writers Miguel de Cervantes and William Shakespeare and, as a book lover, mainly of perfumes, I could not forget paying my homage for this essential day for the awareness about books and writers and the pleasurable act of reading through a very special post about books and perfumes : 5  "MUST HAVE books" you should have to enjoy the perfumery heritage for the mankid. "PERFUME Coffee Table Books".

There are few perfume books in the editorial industry and, those which are available, are mostly in bookstores overseas or, virtually, at Amazon. The intention here is not telling you about the best perfume books,but the essential books in the format " coffee table",that have the advantage of bringing the reader the delights of knowing the history of perfumery and, how it has developed over the years. This format is like to enjoy an ART book seeing unique images, having unforgettable feelings that are awaken in each glance. They are books to be read in zen moments, with no commitment with the rush of the day. They are for that moment in which you wanna sniff the scent of the world smelling your own book. Enjoy this moment of pure delight, drinking your fav Starbuck or that traditional tasty hot coffee and celebrate the World Book day every days with the timeless luxury of the perfumery.




5° lugar/ 5th position 

Fragrance, the story of perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel
Edwin T Morris



 O melhor do livro: O didatismo de Edwin Morris como um contador de história da perfumaria e a cobertura do livro em tópicos históricos abrangentes porém razoavelmente profundos como os aromáticos no Oriente, o uso de perfume na época da monarquia francesa e o advento do perfume e da moda como duas variáveis complementares. Um must have que compila uma visão geral da história dessa grande arte.


O pior do livro: O livro é muito mais para leitura do que para visualização de belas imagens, as quais estão em preto e branco , e algumas em formato de desenho (drawings), o que acaba tornando o livro menos atrativo para os olhos e para os sentidos.




The best of the book: Edwin Morris' good writing as a story teller about perfumery history and the coverture of the book in wide historic topics, yet deep such as the aromatics of the East, the use of perfume in the French Monarchy times and the emerging perfumery combining fashion and perfume. A must have book which joins a general overview of the history praising this great ART.





The worst of the book: The book is much more for reading than enjoying its pictures, most of them are in black and white colors and, some in format of drawings, what become the book less atractive for readers' eyes and senses. 




4° lugar/ 4th position 

Perfume, The art and science of scent
Cathy Newman







 O melhor do livro: A obra de Cathy Newman ganha pelas maravilhosas fotografias que cobrem momentos da perfumaria em todo o mundo fazendo jus à parceria do livro com o National Geographic Society. Com relação ao conteúdo escrito, há trechos com abordagem mais "jornalística" como relatos de profissionais da área e a forma como a escritora apresenta a indústria, o  que acaba aproximando a perfumaria à realidade do leitor. Um livro contemplativo com uma sublime dedicação da escritora e do fotógrafo Robb Kendrick.


O pior do livro:  É um livro que não se aprofunda na história da perfumaria, perdendo em teoria.


The best of the book: Cathy Newman's book is very good at its wonderful photograph which covers moments of the perfumery around the world, very aligned to her partnership with National Geographic Society. Regarding to its written content, there are good fragments written in a journalistic approach such as some quotes of perfume industry's professionals featuring the "real" industry, what facilitates the reader being closer to what happens behind the "scenes". A contemplative book done with the sublime dedication of Cathy and the excellent photographer Robsb Kendrick.


The worst of the book: It is a book that does not go in depth in perfumery history, missing some of its theory.



3° lugar/ 3rd position 

New perfume handbook
Nigel Groom










 O melhor do livro:  Nigel enfoca mais informações de perfumes modernos, as empresas de fragrâncias e suas marcas, e principalmente, a composição olfativa dos perfumes com seus detalhados ingredientes.


O pior do livro:  É um livro com alto custo x benefício porque o autor não cobre boa história vintage de perfumes, que seria altamente recomendável para cobrir o interesse dos colecionadores, além disso o livro não é tão ilustrativo frustrando o leitor que é mais visual e aprecia o legado da perfumaria.


The best of the book:  Nigel focuses more on information about modern perfumes, fragrance manufacturers and perfume houses and their brands , and mainly in the olfactive composition of perfumes and their ingredients in details.


The worst of the book:  High cost x benefits because the author does not cover good vintage history of perfumes, what would be highly recommended to meet the interest of collectors, besides the book is not so illustrated, then it frustrates the reader that is more visual and appreciate the perfumery heritage.





2° lugar/ 2nd position 

The book of perfume
Elisabeth Barillé and Catherine Laroze
 










 O melhor do livro:  Um livro maravilhoso, essencial e apaixonante (e é meu preferido). Uma excelente ilustração evocativa com imagens vintage que vão desde a fotografia até a pintura, e um livro que encanta pela forma de colocar o conteúdo histórico, publicitário e de negócios da perfumaria como se conduzisse o leitor a uma jornada poética. Fundamental para colecionadores de perfumes e para apaixonados por perfumes que tem bom gosto estético.


O pior do livro:  É um livro que não teve reimpressão, então ele perde a parte mais moderna da perfumaria, o que é uma pena pois a contemporaneidade  da da indústria precisaria de tamanha inspiração.


The best of the book:  An essential, wonderful and adorable book (and this one is my favorite). An excellent and evocative illustration featuring vintage images from the photograph to paintings, and a book that enchants by its way of including its historical, advertisment and business contents in perfumery, as if the reader had travelled in a poetic  reading journey. It is a key book for collectors of perfumes and for scents fans who have a good aesthetics taste.


The worst of the book:  This book has not had reimpression, then it misses the update of the modern perfumery, what is regretful because the contemporaneous industry needs more inspiration.



1° lugar/ 1st position 

Perfume Legends/Parfums de Légende
Michael Edwards,
in French version, translated by Guy Robert









O melhor do livro:  Um livro caro que vale cada centavo porque Michael Edwards tem um excelente conhecimento enciclopédico sobre perfumaria e uma influência para ter informações privilegiadas, em especial, dos grandes clássicos e os bastidores que revelam a história de perfumes desde a década glamurosa que vai das décadas de 20 a 50 até o lançamento de Thierry Mugler Angel que mudou o rumo da perfumaria de inspiração gourmand. É uma jóia rara em forma de livro, essencial para fanáticos por perfumes.


O pior do livro:  É um livro muitíssimo caro na versão em inglês e, por incrível que pareça, raro. Eu tive que comprar a versão em francês que, a propósito, é bem mais barata e vale bem mais o investimento.




The best of the book:  An expensive book that worths each penny because  Michael Edwards has an excellent encyclopedic knowledge about perfumery and his influence to obtain hard to reach information, specially, about great classics and the backstage of the industry which revails the detailed history of perfumes since 20's to 50's and go on, till the release of  Thierry Mugler Angel which changed the destiny of the perfumery inspired by gourmand scents. Definitely, this book is a rare jewel, essential for perfume addicts.




The worst of the book:  It is very expensive in its english version (really very) and, also, is rare. I had to buy mine in French version which, by the way, is cheaper and worths this better purchase.





ENJOY YOUR PERFUME READING
AND 
HAPPY WORLD BOOK DAY

THESE ARE
PERFUME DA ROSA NEGRA'S WISHES 


Take some time and follow our scented TWITTER






Text and book selection by Cristiane Gonçalves for Perfume da Rosa Negra.

World Book Day: The Book Cover of the Day: THE PERFUME, Caroline Cooney



Vamos fazer uma boa ação hoje no dia Mundial do livro e divulgar a capa sinistra do "quase desconhecido no meio perfumístico" livro ficcional de Caroline Cooney, o Perfume. Não é um livro vampírico apesar do sangue na capa e da moda Crepúsculo; pelo contrário, há um tema bem interessante de uma garota que compra uma fragrância "Venon"(que é um nome super venenoso) e quando a usa, ela mostra sua personalidade maquiavélica. Se pensarmos que quando usamos um perfume sedutor, queremos atrair nossa  presa,e mostrar nossa sensualidade de homens e mulheres com más intenções, há que aceitar que o perfume tem esse lado diabolique no jogo da sedução. Nesse livro, o "evil" tem outro sentido, o do horror pois Cooney é especialista nesse gênero de literatura fantástica. De qualquer maneira,  vale a reflexão do poder do perfume como um elixir perfumado e ritualístico.

Demos muitas risadas com essa capa super trash. Viva à democracia no mercado editorial, há lugar para todos.


***


We're going to make a good action today in the World Book Day and post here the sinistrous ficction book cover of THE PERFUME, the "almost unknown in the perfumery field" written by Caroline Cooney. This book is not about vampires and Twilight fever, despite the blood on its cover, on the contrary, there is an interesting theme  based on a girl who buys a strange fragrance named as "Venon" (which is a super poisoned name) and when she wears it, she reveals her evil personality.If you think that we, when we want to attract our preys, and show our sensuality of men and women with bad intentions, it is clear to accept that the perfume has some "diabolique facet" during the seduction game. In this book, the "evil facet" has other meaning, the horror, because Cooney is specialist in the type of fantastic literature, however it is worth to reflect on the power of perfume as a fragrant and ritualistic elixir.




We laughed a lot here seeing this super trash book cover. Viva the freedom in the editorial market, there are places for all.

quinta-feira, 4 de março de 2010

Quote of the Day: Marguerite Duras, L'Amant (O amante/The Lover)



"Digo-lhe que venha, que me possua outra vez. Ele obedece. É bom o cheiro do cigarro inglês, o perfume caro, ele cheira a mel, sua pele absorveu o cheiro da seda, aquele cheiro de fruta do tussor de seda, de ouro, ele desperta desejo..."

"I tell him to come over to me, tell him he must possess me again. He comes over. He smells pleasantly of English cigarettes, expensive perfume, honey, his skin has taken on the scent of silk, the fruity smell of silk tussore, the smell of gold, he’s desirable..."





Quote by  French Literature book L'Amant, Marguerite Duras.
Photo Credits:actor Joachim Phoenix. Perfume quote selection by Cristiane Gonçalves

segunda-feira, 22 de fevereiro de 2010

Imagem da semana/ Image of the week: A courtesan perfume



A imagem da semana é o lindo poster do novo filme Cheri, baseado na obra literária de Colette e estrelado por Michelle Pfeiffer como a cortesã Francesa Lea de Lonval que ensina a arte do amor e do sexo ao jovem Cheri, interpretado pelo ator Rupert Friend. Lea de Lonval e Cheri se apaixonam perdidamente e ambos tem uma diferença de idade no qual o amor não encontrou nenhuma barreira. No poster, a cortesã segura um frasco de perfume, enquanto o jovem a beija. Sedução não conhece idade. Seduzir com perfume também não.


Cheri: O jardim tem um aroma delicioso à noite.
Lea: É a acácia rosa.
Cheri: Venha cá!
(e eles se beijam)



English version


The image of the week is the gorgeous poster of new movie Cheri, based on book written by Colette and stared by Michelle Pfeiffer as the French courtesan Lea de Lonval who teaches  the art of the love and sex to the young Cheri performed by actor Rupert Friend. Lea de Lonval and Cheri  fall in love by each other and both have a considerable age difference but happily the love still survives. In the poster, the courtesan holds a perfume bottle while the young man kisses her skin. Seduction knows no age. Seducing with a perfume has no age too.


Cheri: Your garden smells beautiful this evening.
Lea: It is the rose acacia
Cheri:  Come here!
(and they kiss each other)

quinta-feira, 3 de dezembro de 2009

Scented Insights: Smell of the Rain

(only in English)


Scented Insights are fragrant intuitive fragments by Cris Rosa Negra. Short Insightful quotes all of a sudden moved by my passionate inspiration. Read it, smell it and be guided by your imagination! Perfumery is absolutely insightful.
 





Hot weather among four walls
heating the closed room of this urban confinement
Responsabilities and concerns burning my brain
in this present time, full of pain
But, happily, raining is now falling from Heaven
making me remember my childhood blessings
taking funny playful rain baths smelling
its wet earthy scent
fresh, wonderfully free nature smell
setting me free now, with a new weather
making me feel a child forever.




(Scented insights: Smell of the Rain by  Cris Rosa Negra inspired 
by a sudden rain in São Paulo, the city of the drizzle (and the rush 
which urges some peace and freedom)


quarta-feira, 25 de novembro de 2009

Freud, Cheiro Meu



Inundará o cheiro 
o deserto do meu inconsciente 
que está deveras seco
na angústia do sujeito

O eu perdido, 
aspirando o cheiro vivo
que projeta sonhos olfativos
de tantos realismos.

Cheiro meu,
sujeita-me ao meu eu
mergulha-me nas imagens
multiformes
plenamente
pulsantes
sintomas que despertam na dor
o seu odor delirante

(por Cristiane Gonçalves,
La Rosa Negra)





Photo credits: Lucien Freud. Poetry inspired by 2 Freuds, Sigmund and Lucien.

terça-feira, 3 de novembro de 2009

Quote of the Day: Edward Cullen, New Moon - The Twilight Saga / Lua Nova - A Saga Crepúsculo


 


You smell just exactly the same as always. 
So maybe this is hell. I don´t care. I'll take it.  

Edward Cullen, New Moon, Chapter 20, p.452


Tens exatamente o mesmo cheiro de sempre.
Então, talvez isto seja mesmo o inferno. 
Eu não me importo. Eu aceito-o.


Edward Cullen, Lua Nova, Capítulo 20, p.452






Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson

Harper's Bazaar Editorial

 

Photo credits: Twilight Saga and Harper's Bazaar

quarta-feira, 29 de julho de 2009

Scented Insights: Oliban (Frankincense)

(only in English)

Scented Insights are fragrant intuitive fragments by Cris Rosa Negra. Short Insightful quotes all of a sudden moved by my passionate inspiration. Read it, smell it and be guided by your imagination! Perfumery is absolutely insightful.





"Oliban is my luxuriant resin for sacred sins"

(Scented insights: Oliban, Cris Rosa Negra's quote)

Quote by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
Photo credits: Oliban by Alibaba.com. All rights reserved.

terça-feira, 28 de julho de 2009

Scented Insights: Tobacco + Vanilla

(only in English)

Scented Insights are fragrant intuitive fragments by Cris Rosa Negra. Short Insightful quotes all of a sudden moved by my passionate inspiration. Read it, smell it and be guided by your imagination! Perfumery is absolutely insightful.





"Tobacco+vanilla is an exciting combination. It is like to join a sexy man and a sweet woman in a breathtaking one-night stand after a Cuban Salsa dance."

(Scented insights: Tobacco + Vanilla, Cris Rosa Negra's quote)




Quote by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
Photo credits: Art Painting Salsa Dancers byJennifer Goldberger
. All rights reserved.

sábado, 11 de julho de 2009

Perfume Review: MaDame, Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier MaDame




Jean Paul Gaultier é um dos fashion designers que mais usam o componente da moda por si mesma incorporada à fragrância para expressar o estilo de sua linha de perfumes: sensual, ousado, irreverente. A clássica silhueta feminina de Classique e a masculina de Le Male e Fleur du Male representam a personificação de que uma fragrância é para vestir corpos, aflorados pelo sedutor apelo, quase doutrinário de uma ousadia sensual libertária, a liberdade perfumada de Jean Paul Gaultier. Somado ao seu estilo de moda, as fragrâncias de JPG buscam reinventar homens e mulheres a partir dos próprios conceitos do estilista contra o padrão imposto pela sociedade, ou seja, é possível encontrar uma fragrância masculina mais delicada e graciosa como Fleur du Male e uma fragrância mais vibrante e exacerbamente sedutora como, respectivamente, MaDame e Classique.



Delicado frasco com curvas femininas iluminadas por um cool pink
Delicate flacon with female curves illuminated by a cool pink



Acompanhando a sua versatilidade em mesclar uma moda ousada, unindo influências de vanguarda à estética do presente e o tom futurista, além de seus costumeiros diálogos com outras artes como a literatura, a música e o cinema, Gaultier decidiu recuperar com MaDame as mulheres Garçonne, inspiradas pelo romance La Garçonne de Victor Margueritte, lançado em 1922 e traduzido em português como "A Emancipada". Um livro escandaloso para a época, ditador de uma geração de mulheres audazes, sensualmente donas do próprio nariz. As Garçonnes usavam cabelos curtos, mais masculinizadas e tinham uma atitude rebelde, totalmente revolucionária. Para a história, a Garçonne é um símbolo da rebeldia feminina da década de 20.






La Garçonne, culto ao Rebeldia nos anos 20
La Garçonne, Rebelious cult in 20's


Com esta fragrância, mais uma criação do perfumista Francis Kurkdjian para Jean Paul Gaultier, as mulheres fogem do padrão tradicional e elitizado de ser "a Madame" e se tornam "Ma Dame" ( Minha Dama) pelo conceito do rebelde estilista. MaDame é uma mulher com um estilo mais cool e único, uma sexy fêmea masculina, sem as grandes frescuras do universo feminino; uma mulher independente, moderna e bem humorada. Para o rosto de MaDame, Gaultier selecionou a top Agyness Deyn, a dama esguia, estilosa e moderna, dona de um dos cabelos curtos mais fashion e desejáveis do mundo.





Agyness Deyn, face para Jean Paul Gaultier MaDame



Do contrário do que se imagina para uma Dama de forte personalidade, a fragrância se revela como um perfume fresco com laranja, rosas, ligeiros toques gourmands de grenadine e tem a sexy base de musk que se equilibra com a luxuosa leveza da madeira de cedro. No desenvolvimento, a entrada é vibrante, deliciosamente cítrica com acordes cristalinos de laranja. Não é um cítrico muito ácido e sintético, mas um cítrico que chega a ser festivo com ondas aromáticas de um frescor que trazem uma alegria imediata, um desejo repentino de liberdade, de inusitada vitalidade. Posteriormente, o perfume fica mais adocicado, ainda expressivo mesmo que o toque floral não seja rebuscado e exacerbamente feminino e os toques amadeirados se mantém bem definidos, previsíveis. Desta forma, MaDame consegue manter multifacetas olfativas: enérgico, alegre, jovial e sensual.


É interessante notar que Gaultier adora um humor escancarado, brincar com os sexos. Em Fleur du Male, através de uma fragrância levemente masculina, tão leve como a flor de um macho, ele trouxe as duas facetas opostas, do homem viril e, ao mesmo tempo delicado. Com MaDame, as mulheres fogem do padrão "gostosa ou mulherão" de ser, ou seja, o ser Minha Dama seria uma mulher com um estilo mais subversivamente cool em uma contra-mão dos estereótipos do luxo clássico e do banal comercial.
A publicidade do perfume dá a exata expressão da nova heroína de JPG através de pequenos detalhes visuais como o cabelo, a reta silhueta e o traje.




Para a praticidade do mundo atual e a realidade do mercado de fragrâncias, Gaultier acertou a pontaria de alguns grandes últimos lançamentos: entradas frescas e luminosas como Paco Rabanne 1 Million e Marc Jacobs Daisy que criam um impacto de jovialidade, sempre brilhante e envolvente. Também, como um autêntico rebelde, uniu uma estética de mulher masculina que luta para a quebra de paradigma e, ainda assim, é delicadamente feminina, assim como o recurso da música, aqui cantada pela figura fashion de Miss Kittin ( recurso encontrado em tantos outros perfumes recém lançados como Givenchy Play , Burberry Beat for woman e Beat for men). Sendo assim, estes elementos tão recorrentes na modernidade da indústria de perfumes fazem com que MaDame seja uma fragrância competitiva.


Particulamente, o melhor do perfume é o início vibrante da esfusiante laranja que traz um frescor sofisticado e, de forma transitória, a sensualidade dos toques adocicados florais que se mostram versáteis para ser sexy a qualquer hora do dia. A fragrância de uma heroína rebelde reinventada, mais um fetiche do Terrible Enfant Gaultier
para as jovens emancipadas.


TV Publicidade para Jean Paul Gaultier MaDAME
TV AD for Jean Paul Gaultier MaDAME





Música completa de Miss Kittin , 3éme sexe
Complete song of Miss Kittin, 3éme sexe





(English Version)


Jean Paul Gaultier is one of the fashion designers who most use the fashion variable by itself incorporated to the fragrance to express his perfume line style: sensual, daring, irreverent. The female classic silhouette of Classique and the male one of Le Male and Fleur du Male represent the personification of one fragrance to cover bodies arising the seductive appealing , almost doctrinal by one libertarian sensual audacity, the fragrant freedom by Jean Paul Gaultier. Added to his fashion style, JPG's fragrances reinvent men and women from his own stylist concepts against some patterns imposed by the society, that is, it is possible to find a male fragrance more delicate and gracious such as Fleur du Male and one fragrance more vibrant and strongly seductive how is, respectively, MaDame and Classique.


Following his versatility in mixing a daring fashion, joining avant guarde influences with the current aesthetics and the futurist nuances, besides his natural interfaces with issues of literature, music and cinema Gaultier decided to recover with MaDame, the women Garçonne, inspired by the novel La Garçonne of Victor Margueritte, released in 1922 and translated to portuguese as "A Emancipada". A scandalous book in those Times which drive one generation of impetuous women, sensually owner of their themselves.
Les Garçonnes ladies used to having short and male-like hair and had an unsubmissive attitude, totally revolutionary. For the history, the Garçonne is the symbology of a rebellious way of being in decade of 20.


With this fragrance, one more creation of the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian for Jean Paul Gaultier, women escape from the traditional and elite standard of being "the Madam" and become "Ma Dame" (My Lady) by the rebel fashion designer. Ma Dame is a woman with a cool and unique style , a sexy female male woman without these foolish ideas of the feminine universe, an independent, modern and good-humoured woman. To be MaDame face, Gaultier selected the top model Agyness Deyn, contemporaneous and stylish thin woman, owner of one of the most fashionable and desirable short hairs in the world.


To the contrary what is imagined for a Dame with a strong personality, the fragrance is revealed as a fresh fragrance with orange, roses and subtle gourmand touches of grenadine and has a sexy base of musk which is balanced by the luxury lightness of the cedarwood. In the development, the start is sparkling, deliciously citrusy overtoned by crystalline chords of orange. It is not an ordinary synthetic citrus chord, but a one very joyful with aromatic waves of a freshness that bring an immediate happyness , a sudden desire of freedom, full of vitality.Later the fragrance becomes sweeter, still expressive even if the floral bouquet is not highly refined and strongly feminine and the woody nuances are kept well defined , predictable. Therefore, MaDame keeps olfactive multifacets: energic, playful, youthful and sensual.


It is interesting to notice Gaultier loves a manifest humor, playing with the genders. In Fleur du Male, through a fragrance slightly male, so light as a macho's flower, he brought two extreme facets, the virile man and, at the same time, very delicate one. With MaDame, women escape from the "delicious or very sexy woman" pattern, that is, to be My Lady is to be a woman with a subversive cool sytle completely in the other hand in comparison to the stereotypes of classic luxury and banal commonplace. The fragrance ad gives the exact expression of the new JPG's heroin through small visual details such as her hair, thin silhouette and clothing.



Taking into consideraton the practical way of current world and the reality of the fragrances market, Gaultier gave the right shoot as others big last releases : fresh and luminous top notes like those found in Paco Rabanne 1 Million and Marc Jacobs Daisy which create an impact of joviality, always sparkling and fascinating. Also, like an authentic rebel guy, he joined the aesthetics of a male woman who battles to break the rules and paradigms and still is feminine, as well as the resource of music with the song of the cool Miss Kittin (also a resource found in others new fragrances as Givenchy Play , Burberry Beat for woman and Beat for men).Hence these elements so repetitive in the contemporaneity in perfume industry become MaDame a competitive fragrance.


Particularly, the best of the fragrance is the sparkling start of a playful orange that brings a sophisticated freshness and, in a transitory way, the sensuality of sweet floral touches which are showed as versatile to make a woman sexy any time of the day. The fragrance of a reinvented rebel heroin, one more fetish of the Terrible Enfant for emancipated young ladies.




Photo credits: Jean Paul Gaultier e Roman Editora.
Videos, a courtesy of Youtube.
Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra.

sexta-feira, 26 de junho de 2009

Perfume Review: L , Lolita Lempicka

PERFUME DA ROSA NEGRA - L LOLITA LEMPICKA PERFUME FRAGRANCE

Part of 14 Unforgettable Scents, Memorable Fragrant Writings Series. Portuguese version, click here


L , Lolita Lempicka



That is the last review of the special "14 Memorable Fragrant Writings" by Perfume da Rosa Negra. Finalizing this issue, I 've selected a fragrance to show you my love for a special vanilla, mine and from many vanilla followers around the world, no matter if this vanilla is applied on the culinary as aromatizer in cakes, cookies and others candies as well as scented raw material used to compose the heart and the base of various fragrances.


Vanilla is a must in compositions of the current perfumery, however in Lolita Lempicka L, the vanilla is a type of aesthetics by itself. The note provides the insight of beautifulness and also an contemplative effect of how a different vanilla may value a fragrance in a positive and innovative way, embracing its wearers with a pleasurable and comfortable sensation.




The fragrance was created by the brilliant Maurice Roucel, one of the most renowned noses in the selective group of master perfumers in the industry and one of the few professionals that I appreciate as a great talent. This admiration is not because of L, a tender and must have fragrance to my vanillic taste, but because he is autodidatic, determined, passionate and is very well successful on perfumery art as a natural gift and valuable effort. His learning oriented competency is clear and is base of all his career path. Among his creations, there are famous fragrances as Rochas Tocade and the best seller of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, the cult Musc Ravageur.


Released in 2006, Lolita Lempicka L had the same fate of its creator. A successful fate. L is a very feminine fragrance which could only be designed by a perfumer who is passionate for women, as said by Maurice Roucel. Currently this perfume is one of the most popular fragrances among those who love a vanilla scent and, more than only an amazing vanilla note, L features notes as bitter orange, bergamot, cinamon, musk and the rare immortal flower of Globe Amaranthus.


The concepts for the flacon and the fragrance value the mythical legend, also immortal, of a mermaid. This concept in Lolita Lempicka L can easily deceive anyone, because the first impression which is expected for a fragrance of this type is something smelling a citrusy, refreshing and light scent. A pure false impression. In L, the bergamot and the bitter orange imply subtle "hot" citrusy accords influenced by the note of cinamon that adds to the fragrance a more attractive , exotic and provokative scented profile, the same profile of sensuality found in a mermaid. The spicy note of cinamon joined to the bitter orange both cause an emotion as the song of a mermaid.



Mermaid scent

It is like a type of enchantment coming from the fragrance, it is like to hear the sweetness of sounds coming from these legendary myths, so seductive, going deeper in their world, become the own mermaid involved by immortal flowers and a soft vanilla cream. Something surreal, untouchable like a myth. The second image is the unrestrained desire of drowning in this blue sea, completely vanillic. Drinking this liquid that affects the taste sense as every gourmand scent affects the olfaction.





In the base of perfume, the woody vanilla with touches of cinamon interact together and can be compared to the olfactive memory of the sea's wind, that is the moment of staring the sea and enjoy it. In L, this moment is sweet and comfortable and has the beauty of a unique and distinct vanilla such the beauty of a mermaid rising from the sea. A fragrance for mermaids who wish to dive into a sea of vanilla and simply to love being a vanillic mermaid diva.





Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra. Imagens: Lolita Lempicka Site
Art Mermaids from madaboutmermaids.com of Patricia Campbell

terça-feira, 9 de junho de 2009

Perfume Review: Hypnotic Poison, Dior

Part of 14 Unforgettable Scents, Memorable Fragrant Writings Series. Portuguese version, click here


Milla Jolovich, a famous face for Hypnotic Poison

Dior Hypnotic Poison, hypnotic, provoker and lascivious; but not any lasciviouness as others sensual fragrances. Hypnotic Poison places between the fragrance comfort and the sensual appealing highlighted by the notes of almond, vanilla and musk. The libidinal vanilla that reaches the climax of the pleasure after three hours of scent development and, later, provokes that sensation of to be wrapped by sheets, satiated fully by a sweet, warm and slightly musky scent after an "vanillic orgasm." Do you think three hours is much time to an extreme vanilla pleasure? Absolutely not. It is what every woman desires, enjoying the moment and be led to the olfactive pleasure for a long satisfaction pleasure; a more delightful experience than enjoying the famous type of "fast intersexual intercourse" found in some vanilla fragrances without creativeness.



The poisoned fragrance... Hypnotize me!


The fragrance preliminaries are very provocative and become Hypnotic Poison sexier in the course of its developmet. It is a poison, narcotic as a drug, because of that some people can smell some medicinal smell in the fragrance start. Happily, I do not feel this medicine scent on my skin. I feel something better than it: the scent of glass of liqueur to warm the relationship up.



Monica Belucci, new Face of Hypnotic Poison

The heady notes feature a very sweet liqueur scent as flavored as an amaretto one. The almondy bitter smell on the skin is evident, much more than the vanillic scent. In some moments, the floral may be perceived through the jasmin sambac note, however the floral accords are not strong enough in this fragrance. That is amazing! To imagine a prominent floral scent in Hypnotic Poison should be to romanticize the most lascivious senses.

Senses, a good word to be associated to Hypnotic Poison; more than the olfaction and the taste senses mentioned before, the fragrance picture is related to the image of a young woman, but with the intention of a provocative mature woman. Her sensual desires are achieved and she knows how to reach it. Hypnotic Poison is for women who are awared about their seduction, those women whose hidden desires can be revealed pleasurably.

Hence I never has thought that the vanilla of this perfume and others notes are blended to compose a teen fragrance as a fragrant potion to unexperienced women. To the contrary I think about Hypnotic Poison like a perfume for a woman with a young soul who searches much more and early her freedom and the accomplishments of her sensual desires, being dissimulative or innocent.



Presença de Anita, book of Mario Donato
A Brazilian Lolita woman


Because of this image about the fragrance, since its flacon to the result of the olfactive experience, I associated Hypnotic Poison to the image of the woman girl of the book Presença de Anita, written by Mario Donato and published in the end of decade of 40. The mature provocations of Anita, even she is young, become her an adult lady, a poison in a woman full of magnetism, almost an evil girl. Sexy provocations that would only be together to a delicious fragrance as Hypnotic Poison.


Photo credits: Dior Hypnotic Poison by Dior. Book presença de Anita, source at Cultureba

Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra.