"My dream is to capture the first whiff of a flower or the dewy"
A photograph of Sunflower rests on the desk of Harry Fermont's office at Firmenich. As if planted with magical seeds, it easily outgrows the height of this three daughters who are huddled underneath the flower and embracing it stalk like an umbrella , laughing with delight. This particular sunflower reaches the second story of a Harry's house!
To those who know him well, the sunflower is a caricature of Harry's personality, always reaching higher, open and approachable, with sunny disposition and a stubborn will. Harry has been a constant gardener since the age of five "Nature teach us to find beauty in both the irregular and the perfect. It makes me happy to be alive. My dream is to capture the first whiff of a flower or the dewy, fresh effect of a perfect day". And he captured flowers beauty in new Jennifer Lopez My Glow fragrance, a gentle floral fragrance with skin scent approach. Check out his fast Q&A about My Glow including some information on synthetical materials in fragrance industry.
What were you looking for in creating the My Glow scent?
HF: I wanted to create an aura...A scent that is extremely intimate but also very diffusive with distinctive signature... A "feel-good fragrance".
Are there any synthetical materials, which ones?
HF:Yes, they are several. Many beautiful smelling flowers such as Freesia, Lily of the Valley and Peony, cannot be distilled through traditional perfumery extraction methods. Therefore, perfumers must recreate their scent through science, and are able to achieve a very true nature-result.
Over the years, we have lost some natural materials primarly due to safety and availability. For example, Indian Sandalwood is an endangered species, heavenly protected by the Indian Government. Today, we must turn to synthetics to create the scent of Sandalwood. Another example is musk - the natural substance originally obtained from the fawn has been replaced today with synthetic products.
And what are the olfactive competitors of My Glow?
HF: There aren't any! This fragrance is the first in its category. The modernization of white musk in a very feminine way has never been done before.
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(Portuguese version)
Uma fotografia de um girassol descansa sobre a mesa do escritório do perfumista da Firmenich Harry Fermont. Como se plantada com sementes mágicas, a flor facilmente supera a altura de suas três filhas que se aconchegam debaixo da flor e abraçam sua haste como um guarda sol, rindo com encanto. Este girassol toca na segunda história de Harry!
Para aqueles que o conhecem bem, o girassol é uma caricatura da personalidade de Harry, sempre de personalidade elevada, aberta e comunicativa, com uma disposição alegre e uma vontade resoluta. Harry tem sido um constante jardineiro desde que tinha 5 anos " A natureza nos ensina a encontrar a beleza em coisas irregulares e perfeitas. Isso me faz sentir-me feliz por estar vivo. Meu sonho é capturar o primeiro cheiro de uma flor ou seu orvalho, o fresco efeito de um dia perfeito". E ele capturou a beleza das flores no novo Jennifer Lopez My Glow, um floral gentil cuja abordagem é cheiro de pele. Cheque agora sua rápida entrevista Q&A sobre My Glow que inclue também informação sobre matérias sintéticas na indústria de fragrâncias.
O que você estava buscando quando criou a fragrância de My Glow?
HF: Eu queria criar uma aura... Um cheiro que é extremamente íntimo mas também bastante difusivo com uma assinatura diferenciada... Um fragrância "sentir-se bem"
Há algumas matérias sintéticas, quais?
HF:Sim, há várias. Muitas flores bonitas de se cheirar com a Freesia, o lírio do Vale e a peônia, que não podem ser destiladas através dos métodos de perfumaria tradicionais. Logo, perfumistas devem recriar o cheiro destes através da ciência, e serem capazes de alcançar um resultado verdadeiramente natural.
Durante anos, nós temos perdido algumas matérias naturais primariamente devido à questões de segurança e disponibilidade. Por exemplo, o sândalo Indiano é uma espécie em extinção, pesadamente protegida pelo Governo da Índia. Hoje, nós devemos nos virar para os sintéticos para criar o cheiro de sândalo. Outro exemplo é o musk - a substância natural originalmente obtida do corço tem sido substituído por produtos sintéticos.
E quais são os competidores de My Glow?
HF:Não há nenhum! Esta fragrância é a primeira em sua categoria. A modernização do musk branco de uma maneira muito feminina nunca havia sido feita antes.
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Special thanks Coty Team. My Glow is a recent launch (2010) in Brazilian retails.
Where did the inspiration for the fragrance MY Glow come from?
J.Lo: The inspiration for the fragrance MY Glow came from where I am, a place of happiness and fulfillment at this intimate stage of my life. There's a special glow that women get when they're pregnant and when they are falling in loving by their babies. I wanted My Glow to be for all women to be able to connect with this intimacy and love.
Where did the name "My Glow" originate?
J.Lo: Marc and I were thinking about it and wanted something personal to share with women. My Glow came from the feeling of love and joy of being a new mother. I wanted my new fragrance to be extremely intimate and feminine.
How involved were you in the conception of My Glow?
J.Lo: Actually the conception of My Glow came from me. I wanted to share the most perfect moment in my life. No words can describe it, but a fragrance can capture it because a fragrance is about emotional connection. I wanted a fragrance which really inspired me at this particular time of my life.
"It has been such an amazing time in my life"
Talk about the emotional bond between mother and child and how your fragrance captures the essence of this relationship.
J.Lo: It's a bond unlike any other - something that you can really only understand when you have a little ones of your own. It's extremely intimate, the most fulfilling relationship there is. My fragrance captures the tender, nurturing nature of this relatioship; the overwhelming love and joy you feel.
The fragrance bottle is beautiful. What was the inspiration behind the design?
J.Lo: I wanted a bottle to convey serenity and joy. The cherub cap was inspired by a soap that I have in my nursery. The cherub cap is extremely angelic and innocent in nature and the bottle has this gorgeous vintage detailing that is overwhelmingly feminine. The symbolism of the cherub is that "every baby is an angel".
Describe the advertising concept.
J.Lo: The advertising was built around the idea of stolen moments. It's sneak peek into intimate and personal moments.
"Everything I do now is because of my little angels"
How has being a mother affected you and your creativity?
J.Lo: It has been such an amazing time in my life. More than ever , I am inspired on a level beyond anything I could have ever imagined. Everything I do now is because of my little angels. Having children has made me think differently. It really gives you a purpose.
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(Versão em Português)
De onde veio a inspiração para a fragrância MY Glow?
J.Lo: A inspiração para MY Glow veio de onde estou, um lugar de felicidade e realização deste íntimo estágio de minha vida. Há um brilho especial que as mulheres têm quando ficam grávidas e quando elas se apaixonam pelos seus bebês. Eu queria que My Glow fosse para todas as mulheres serem capazes de se conectar com esta intimidade e amor.
Onde se originou o nome "My Glow"?
J.Lo: Marc e eu estávamos pensando sobre isso e eu queria algo pessoal que eu pudesse compartilhar com as mulheres. My Glow nasceu de um sentimento de amor e de alegria de ser uma nova mãe. Eu queria que a minha nova fragrância fosse extremamente íntima e feminina.
Como você se involveu na concepção de My Glow?
J.Lo: Na verdade, a criação de My Glow partiu de mim. Eu queria compartilhar o momento mais perfeito em minha vida. Nenhuma palavra pode descrever isso, mas a fragrância pode capturar isso porque o perfume é sobre uma conexão emocional. Eu queria uma fragrância que realmente me inspirasse neste momento particular de minha vida.
Fale sobre esse elo emotional entre a mãe e a criança e como sua fragrância captura a essência desta relação.
J.Lo: É um elo como nenhum outro - algo que você realmente só entende quando você tem os seus próprios filhos. É extremamente íntimo, a relação mais completa que há. Minha fragrância captura a terna, a cuidadosa natureza desta relação; o mais irresistível amor e alegria que pude sentir.
O frasco é muito bonito. Qual foi a inspiração por trás deste design?
J.Lo: Eu queria um frasco que transmitisse serenidade e alegria. A tampa de anjo foi inspirada de um sabonete que eu tenho em meu quarto de crianças. A tampa de anjo é extremamente angelical e inocente em sua natureza e o frasco tem este lindo detalhe vintage que é maravilhosamente feminino. O simbolismo do querubim é que "todo bebê é um anjo".
Descreva o conceito da publicidade.
J.Lo: A publicidade foi construída em torno da idéia de momentos capturados.É como uma espiadinha em momentos íntimos e pessoais.
Como ser mãe afetou você e sua criatividade?
J.Lo: Tem sido realmente um momento incrível em minha vida. Mais do que isso, eu estou inspirada em um nível acima de qualquer coisa que eu poderia ter imaginado. Tudo que eu faço agora é por causa dos meus pequenos anjos. Ter filhos me fez pensar diferente. Isso realmente nos dá um propósito.
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Special thanks Coty Team. All photos are related to my Glow ad campaign. Photos from 2009 USA release, My Glow is a recent launch (2010) in Brazilian retails.
Conversations - Guest Fragrance CriticbyPerfume da Rosa Negra. Available in English. Introduction note in Portuguese and English. Translator Available below.
Desde que comecei a desfrutar o poder do YouTube, tenho sido mais devota a assistir os vídeos de meus/ minhas cantores(as) preferidos(as), além de trailers do cinema, minha adorada sétima arte e também os maravilhosos e apaixonantes comerciais de perfumes. Até que um dia, encontrei o Chris Formosa do Fragrance Talk, que tinha decidido fazer resenhas de perfumes em vídeo e ficou famoso no YouTube. Não resisti a conhecê-lo e, muito menos, em trazê-lo aqui para ver o outro lado de um crítico de perfume que filma a si próprio, afinal sou ainda uma mulher das perfumadas palavras escritas e, nós, do Perfume da Rosa Negra, queríamos muito conhecer a paixão de perfumes do Chris, o jovem corajoso o suficiente para colocar a cara na maior rede de vídeos do mundo (e sejamos sinceros, este trabalho não é fácil!Nunca é fácil falar de perfumes). Este dia chegou e,com prazer, trago ao nosso leitor mais uma apaixonado por perfume que se dedica a conhecê-los e a distribuir este amor perfumado em todo o mundo. Bem vindo, querido leitor, bem vindo, Chris. O fragrance talk hoje é aqui!
Um abraço,
Cris, Rosa Negra
Nota da editor
Since I started to enjoy the power of YouTube, I have been devoted to watch the videos of my favorite singers as well as movie trailers, my beloved 7th art and also the wonderful and lovely perfume advertisements. Certain day, I met Chris Formosa from Fragrance Talk, who has decided to write perfume reviews recorded in video and has became famous at YouTube. I could not resist in talking to him and invite him to be welcome here as well as learning from a perfume critic who records his own perfume reviews videos, finally I am a woman of the written fragrant words so I would experience to know someone who talks about perfume in an other way. We, here at Perfume da Rosa Negra would like very much to know Chris' perfume passion, the young brave man who put his face in the largest video network in the world (and let's be honest, talking about perfumes is not easy!). This day has come and, with pleasure, I bring to our readers one more perfume lover who has dedicated to know better about perfumes and offer his time to show the world his fragrant love. Welcome, dear reader,welcome Chris. The fragrance Talk today is here!
A hug,
Cris, Rosa Negra
Editor's Note
Cris PRN :Hi Chris, I would like to thank you for being our Guest Fragrance Critic at Perfume da Rosa Negra. You're welcome here! Tell us who is Chris Formosa.
Chris F: Ah, I can't say I am all that interesting of a person. I am a student, studying for my bachelor’s degree in Business Administration with a major in Marketing Management. I am majoring in marketing because I want a greater understanding of how these amazing fragrance campaigns work. So, I can tare them apart and get down to the actual smell. I want to help people to ignore the photos, the fun bottles (which are artistic as well), look past the celebrities and actually smell the scent in the bottle and base their choice on their individual appreciation for the fragrance. Also, I would LOVE to work for a perfume house and develop marketing strategies that are relevant to the smell.
Cris PRN :Wow, that is a very nice career target. By the way, it was cool to meet you at YouTube reviewing perfumes, our mutual love, what are your reasons to start critizing perfumes at You Tube and Fragrance Talk, how did everything start?
Chris F:Everything kind of just fit together. I knew that I wanted to be a part of the YouTube community and post videos that interested an audience. My first ever video was pretty boring; it was just me talking about my hobbies and interests -- fragrance being one of them. The video got a lot of really great feedback -- asking for more info about my fragrances and questions regarding my opinions. So, I started posting videos answering peoples requests. It was so much fun for me! It then turned into me posting fragrance reviews of scents that people request on a weekly basis.
Cris PRN : Why did you select this type of communication instead of writing about fragrances?
Chris F : I think this way is best to continue with because it allows a community of people to post feedback and questions. Also, I think videos are a lot more captivating and interesting than reading text. Reading off a computer screen is no fun - videos are tons of fun. hehe. Also , I get to have a great time making the videos, editing, and being creative with music and throwing comedy in there sometimes.
PRN: Do you think it is easier to tak or to write about fragrances?
Chris F: I usually take about 5-7 days to fully form my opinion on a fragrance. I like to wear it everyday, and continuously smell it off my wrist, and forearm. I always keep a notepad in my bag or pocket and I write down the changes and things I notice about the scent. I smell for what time era it references, the longevity, I note down it’s classification (woods, oriental, citrus, fruity, etc.) Also, I will get a friend to wear it and smell how far their scent trail is while they are walking. I find out how much it projects, etc. And I love to try and figure out how many other people are wearing the same one. It is easier to tell which fragrance they are wearing if they spray their clothes. And, of course, do I personally like it? I try to be as unbiased about the scent as possible.
Cris PRN : Great! I think any scent critic has to study and research the scent more and more before any public critic. We also evaluate deeply as you here. By the way, your fragrance evaluation process plus recording the fragrance talk in a video. How does it work for Chris?
Chris F: Hmm. I guess since I have a younger audience, I am able to help out kids in high schools capture the attention of their crush. I have created a small youtube community of fragrance lovers and newbies. Most of the newbies like to grab my opinion for what to wear to prom, out for dinner, at the beach, etc. I guess, since I am able to communicate to the younger audience I am able to help them to ignore marketing campaigns like Axe, and focus on what really works for them. Also, I am able to make young guys aware that fragrances are not gender specific.
Cris PRN :What are the main contributions you think you have brought to your readers and, in general, to scent culture?
Chris F: Umm, the most challenging fragrance I reviewed would have to be the original Nautica. I hated it. I had to wear it everyday for 5 days straight; It was torture! haha. I really honestly tried to find something good about it.. I tried to focus on the nice citrus but i couldn’t find anything i really liked... So, my review was super negative -- i was scared it was going to get a bad response.. but, turned out that the viewers LOVED that i totally butchered the fragrances and got a few laughs out of people. I was so lucky to have a really great response.
Cris PRN: Tell us your favorite review and why.
Chris F: My favorite fragrance review is to come in the future. Soon its spring, and as some of you know, it is my absolute favorite month for scents! Fresh, crisp citrus and green leaves, cut with calm lavenders, etc! Ah, I love it ! My favorite video was the “Spring Fragrance” review I did last year. I got to talk about some of my favourites. I hope to do a full review of a couple of them. Can’t wait! :) I learned that people love to hear when i make fun of terrible scents.
Cris PRN: What is your vision about the future of perfumery and your concerns about it.
Chris F: I see the perfume industry going in a pretty bad direction for now.. everything that is coming out this year is all the same, generic, and unimaginative. All of these celebrity and designer brands are releasing things that just have had good sales in the past. They aren’t trying new things and taking risks. But, some good new trends I see are more young people being interested in reading about fragrances and ignoring marketing strategies; more interested in looking up consumer reviews. So, that allows talented critics to help people find scents that truly work for them and ignore celebrity labels.
Cris PRN:Now, your scented secrets: Best signature and best perfumer for Chris:
Chris F: Ah, I am lame. My favourite fragrance house is Creed.. Surprised? I think not. haha . Oh well, I am not going to try to seem individualistic and sound sophisticated LOL. I LOVE Green Irish Tweed and probably always will. Frederick Malle is extremely talented as well. :)
Cris PRN:Finalizing your nice visit here, tell us what makes Fragrance Talk unique.
Chris F: Fragrance Talk is unique because it is fragrance reviews meets video and new media. It is based around community. Forums are being re-created and every blog post and video posted has space for people to comment and share their opinion. I really enjoy interacting with the people who watch my reviews. I have some great visions for the future of Fragrance Talk. I won't share too much just yet. I love you all! XOXO!
Interview by Cristiane Gonçalves for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
"Experienced in composing fragrances for various renowned brands such as Dior, Donna Karan, Elizabeth Arden, Ralph Lauren, among others, the Givaudan Senior Perfumer and Vice President Fragrances USA Olivier Gillotin is passionate for scents and emotions and takes the best from this intimate combination. “My style of perfumery has more to do with sensations, feeling and emotions… I do use naturals odors but more as emotions than trying to imitate nature”. With a solid professional background of more than 25 years working in the perfumery through a multi-cultural path in diverse countries such as France, United States, Mexico, Brazil, etc and perfume studies in the International Givaudan Perfumery School, Olivier is a very self-confessed perfumery lover … perfumery, his love at first sight, now at Sniffapalooza Magazine only for you."
We, at Sniffapalooza Magazine wish you a great Happy New Year and look forward to having your presence in 2010 and
I wish my editor Raphaella Brescia a great New Year, thank you for the great magazine, professionalism, loyalty, friendship and mutual love for perfumery. Here we go...
Introductory text by Cristiane Gonçalves for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Photo credits: Olivier Gillotin Givaudan perfumer & VP under permission.
Welcome! You 're my special invitee for this pleasant conversation to discover, mainly, details of new House of Kurkdjian opened in Paris as a stunning perfumer dream.
Francis Kurkdjian opened recently his new House, the Maison Kurkdjian in September, 7th, 2009, a memorable occasion when a beautiful dream came true - the dream of a very talent perfumer and composer in opening his house - an invitation to his world of fragrant Arts, his Maison as the genuine meaning of the word, as he naturally and splendidly says:
“I chose to add the word “Maison” (house) before my name. It is not stylistic concept but rather a way to express what I believe”. A house has soul and history, inhabitants and friends and sometimes children. All those emotions derived from “home” join together under this word and animate my dream: to create as my greatest happiness the ability to inspire even little pleasures for others” (1)
I am far from the Parisien Rue D’Alger, n. 5 – the new address of Maison Kurkdjian, however I would have the pleasure of feeling the doors opened to his artistic world in this interview, coming into there and, much more, be inspired one more time by a dedicated and visionary artist of the scents whose perfumes always captured my fragrant tastes. As always, Francis Kurkdjian is very spontaneous and captivating – fascinating virtues, mainly, to work with emotions, people and fragrances, besides, as a real gentleman and sensitive soul demonstrates he is an artist whose passionate enthusiasm and discipline in the métier is to bring beauty, harmony and joy to the world.
Christopher Chong is the Creative Director of the luxurious House of Amouage a renowned niche perfume house whose rich heritage in raw materials of high quality, artistic inspiration and the art in perfumery started in the roots of Sultanate of Oman and brings to the market universal and unique fine fragrances.
After the success of the classic Amouage Gold and so many others fragrances, in the last years under the direction and multi-artistic vision of Christopher Chong guiding the work of great world's perfumers from Grasse , in the South of France, the House of Amouage has changed more and more for an outstanding and excellence performance in perfume making of global luxurious fragrance, among them Jubilation, Lyric and the last release Epica Man and Epic Woman. In this delightful interview, Christopher Chong tells me about the new business approach of Amouage int he last 3 years, his creative inspirations, luxury in fragrances, the new fragrance Epic, among others issues. I hope you enjoy, Art in Fragrances is all, mainly when a brand travels around the world.
Parte de O ano daFrançano Brasil por Perfume da Rosa Negra Part of The year of the France in Brazil by Perfume da Rosa Negra
Absolument Absinthe, a fragrance of Parfum D'interdits led by Pascal Rolland. Now his exclusive business portrait at Perfume da Rosa Negra
Pascal Rolland is the owner of Parfum D'Interdits, his French perfume house, globally in growth after the release of Absolutment Absinthe fragrance, named as the forbidden perfume whose inspiration was based by the scented treasure of Absinthe, banned in France for more than 80 years and revived in 1999 when Pascal Rolland ahead his Liquoristerie de Provence, had it legally in the production of the absinthe liquours Versinthe.
Both companies could join the artisan craft of distillation and art in scents and aromas so valued by the executive who has a determination profile to grow his business recreating the art of perfumery with expertise and passion. His fragrance is a soft blend composed by various prestige essences, including absinthe and cannabis perfectly combined to an appealing clear and sensual skin fragrance.
Because of his passionate attitude and risks in opening a new fragrance business, evoking the treasure of absinthe for his first perfume release, and his business project to praise the craft of perfumery,Pascal is our portrait of a Fragrance Entrepreneur now celebrating with us the year of France in Brazil.
Thanks for your interview, Pascal. Perfume da Rosa Negra wishes Parfum D'Interdits new entrepreneurship vibes and great business achievements.
Fragrant greetings to all of you,
Cristiane
Pascal Rolland, Owner and President of Parfum D'Interdits
a fragrance entrepreneur portrait *
*(Article, versions English/Portuguese)
Company name, vision and mission
The company name is Parfum D'Interdits. We are dedicated to produce rare and authentic perfumes. The first one we produced was Absolument Absinthe because our company is also producing an absinthe liquour you can find all information on Versinthe.net
What is important to us is to be a real artisan perfumery recreating the days of haute parfumerie by producing ourselves some of the absolutes such as absinthe. We also want to share our passion for fragrances. This way we recently developed the concept of the perfume palette in order to give the possibility to anybody to build its own fragrance. Perfume should be art and not just marketing.
Personal business profile and Professional & Education Background
I am graduated from a French high school in Paris called ESLSCA and specialised in International Marketing. I worked for 15 years in a big French spirit group called Pernod Ricard,a company to produce fine spirits from Provence then I established my own business by creating with Marc Villacèque who is a specialist in perfumery from Grasse. We were the first to make absinthe becoming it legal again in France after a ban of 84 years. Versinthe is our absinthe name and the company is called Liquoristerie de Provence.
I shared the passion of essences and perfumes with Marc who led us to produce Absolument Absinthe in 2006. The company has been recently awarded the title of "Company of Living Heritage" by the French Government.
Briefing to start your fragrance business
The reason to start producing perfume was that I was disappointed with all new launches of perfumes by the big companies.
I thought that the business was not enough concerned with fragrances and their quality but more with the marketing. The perfumes were sold by people who wanted to make money out of it and they were not producers.
Since I had distilling pots able to produce essences and a famous specialist from Grasse working with us I wanted to develop perfumes I would like and I have respect for.
Essential points to join the perfume industry as entrepreneur
I got involved with perfume making for two reasons: one was inspiration and the other frustration. I was inspired when distilling absinthe. The aromas of the various plants as they macerate are captivating and unforgettable. The mix of aromas made me want to bottle the scent and not just the absinthe.
The frustration came from the massive launches of new perfumes by the big cosmetic and fashion groups. The spirit in the new perfumes seemed to be aimed entirely at marketing and profit while the art of perfumery, of essences, seemed to be lost.
I was already producing my liqueurs from tanks with a special history in perfume. They were tanks used to distill the essence of rose for Chanel nº 5. My partner was a reputed nose from Grasse, so I had all the elements to make a perfume that came from the old spirit of perfumery - a perfume that I could respect.
How you define your product
Aa perfume was born in the modern alchemy, a distinguishable blend of the world's mythical essences. Notably, "La Fee Verte", the legendary Green Fairy found in Absinth with the mystery of cannabis. To compose this artful fragrance, we blend more than 51 high quality essences, bring an allurement on skin with the combination of floral and amber notes and vegetal and wood aromas. My product also expresses a personal perfume, the real personality in fragrance with a fragrant aura of luminosity, sensuality, also clean and deep, skillfully blended to meet the artisan craft of the perfumery.
How you define your distinguishable business among the competitors
What distinguishes us from most other perfumes on the market is our passion for perfume making. What excites us is perfumes and scents, and the art of making perfume, not stars and famous people marketing yet another product. We want to talk about the product and the producer.
As one of the few real perfume makers in France, we feel it essential to pass along our skills and share our passioin of making perfume. A passion for plants and for scents, and for the art of distilling, when combined with the exact science of blending, allow us to experience absolute moments of alchemy. It is these moments that we wish to share with you.
The creativity involved in the discovery of a new fragrance allows the perfumer to tap into his artistic talents. He then can crafts poetic composition of fragrances which when encountered, can play with the emotions and the imagination.
To be in contact with nature's raw material, to discover their qualities, refine them and then to use our skills and intuition to blend them - this our craft.
This why we created the perfume palette that we will allow the public not only to create its own perfume, but also to better understanding of our art, and to share in our culture and alchemical moments of this singular craft of perfumer.
Company strategy and brand strategy to grow your company
Our strategy for growth is based on developing unique concepts and using innovative packaging, such as our 3 ml refillable "squeezes" or the Aa massage candles or even the perfume palette.
We continue to develop a small but international market with very select distribution in concept boutiques who want to distinguish themselves from the crowd. We pride ourselves on having close relationships with the boutiques and shops and thus are able to launch new promotions effectively, in a hands on style rather than the mass market campaigns.
Strategies to broad the range of your brand
Original ideas and creativity are what expand our palette, rather than developing copy cat products.
Potential and major markets and reasons on focusing growth on them
We are focused on all european markets, South and North America plus far and Middle East. These are the main markets and being a niche product we must focus on large markets.
Your definition of a fragrance entrepreneur
A fragrance entrepreneur has a real passion for essences and fragrances. He/She should have the the ability to turn dreams into reality and sensation in fragrances.
Main learnings taken in the perfume industry
The principal thing that I have learned through making perfume is the idea of "perfection" and an outstanding perfume requires perfection. In a top of the line perfume, the smallest details carry importance, and all needs to be conceived and executed perfectly. Be it in the ingredients, in the formulas, in the brand name, in the packaging and in all the marketing that surrounds the perfume, each component demands perfection, all which makes an exquisite perfume perhaps the most difficult thing to create.
Main challenge of a fragrance entrepreneur
The main challenge of a fragrance entrepreneur is to produce a real new fragrance of high quality. I think that I have already achieved with Absolument Absinthe the challenge of producing an unisex skin perfume using absinthe and cannabis together with 49 other essences. Skin perfume is for me a new trend towards authentic, complex and refined perfumes that difer to the personality and needs of each individual. This calls for novely, more elegant fragrances, a new generation names "Skin perfumes" which combines with the wearer's own chemistry.
Absolument Absinthe will become unique on every different skin this is what happen frequently with perfumes but with Aa is really changing a lot proposing them an unique fragrance. It is amazing to see how this fragrance please so many people in so many different countries.
A new challenge would be produce the most sensual and powerful perfume a little like of Jean Baptiste Grenouille in the book Das Parfum from Patrick Süskind.
A company/perfume house/brand that can be Parfums D'Interdit model
I think that Guerlain Jicky was really innovative and daring. In 1889, Jicky broke the traditional perfume making methods: It is no longer imitating nature, but just like a jewel, creating new emotions by combining existing essences. It is the first modern perfume and took some time for women to adopt Jicky.
Actually, men were the first ones to wear it, thus a subtle perfume with no gender division.
Your leadership inspiration(some personality of the businessor some leadership model of other field)
My inspiration comes from Marcel Pagnol, a Provence French writer whenhe said:
"Toul le monde savait que c'était impossibleil es venu un imbécile qui ne le savait paset qui l'a fait!"
"Everybody knew that it was impossible
he became an idiot that didn't know that
and did it!"
Pascal Rolland is Owner of Parfum D'Interdits and a Fragrance entrepreneur. Passionate for the perfumery of high quality valuing its traditional roots, Pascal Rolland and the perfumer Marc Villacèque created Absolument Absinthe, evoking the beauty of this mythical compound. Absolument Absinthe information can be found via internet at http://www.absolument.net/
Cristiane Gonçalves has also a broad general culture and multilinguistic background and a solid experience and expertise in Management and Human Resources, acquired in top-levels companies such as Johnson & Johnson, IBM and Unilever. She loves being a "fragrance entrepreneur hunter" and envisioned this original business portrait in her perfume blog to value emerging perfume industry professionals taken by an outstanding entrepreneurship spirit. If you are interested in contacting her for major Business, Perfumery and Fragrance Editorial Issues, she may be contacted at cris.perfumedarosanegra@gmail.com
(Portuguese Version)
Pascal Rolland é o proprietário de Parfum D'Interdits, sua perfumaria francesa globalmente em crescimento após o lançamento Absolument Absinthe fragrance também chamada como o perfume proibido cuja inspiração foi baseada no tesouro perfumado Absinto, banido na França por mais de 80 anos e reavivado em 1999 por Pascal Rolland à frente de sua empresa Liquoristerie de Provence, que conseguiu a legalidade da matéria na produção de licores de Absinto Versinthe.
Ambas as companhias puderam unir a arte da destilação em cheiros e aromas, tão valorizada pelo executivo que tem um perfil de determinação para o crescimento de seu negócio recriando a arte da perfumaria com expertise e paixão. Sua fragrância é um leve blend composto por essências de prestígio, incluindo absinto e canabis combinadas perfeitamente para dar à pele um cheiro clean e sensual.
Por causa de sua atitude apaixonante e os riscos tomados em abrir um negócio de fragrâncias, evocando o tesouro do absinto pela primeira vez no seu lançamento em perfume e pelo projeto de negócios para valorizar a verdadeira arte da perfumaria, Pascal Rolland é o nosso retrato de um empreendedor de fragrâncias,agora celebrando conosco o Ano da França no Brasil.
Obrigada pela entrevista, Pascal. Perfume da Rosa Negra deseja à Parfum D'Interdits novas vibrações empreendedoras e grandes resultados no negócio.
Saudações perfumadas a todos,
Cristiane,
Nome da Cia, visão e missão
O nome da Cia é Parfum D´'interdits. Nós nos dedicamos a produzir autênticos e raros perfumes. O primeiro foi Absolument Absinthe porque nossa empresa está produzindo também o licor de absinto cuja informação vocês podem encontrar no Versinthe.net
O que é importante para nós é ser uma verdadeira perfumaria artesã recriando os dias da haute parfumerie produzindo nós mesmos os absolutos como o absinto. Nós também queremos compartilhar nossa paixão por fragrâncias. Desta forma nós desenvolvemos recentemente o conceito de palette de perfumes de forma a dar uma possibilidade para qualquer um construir sua própria fragrância. Perfume deveria ser arte e não somente marketing.
Perfil pessoal de negócios e Background Profissional e Educacional
Eu sou graduado pela escola francesa ESLSCA de Paris e me especializei em Marketing internacional. Eu trabalhei 15 anos para um grande grupo francês dedicado aos Spirits que se chama Pernod Ricard, uma Cia para produzir estes produtos finos da Provence; então eu me estabilizei com meu próprio negócio criando com Marc Villacèque que é especialista em perfumaria em Grasse. Nós fomos os primeiros a fazer com que o Absinto se tornasse legal novamente na França depois de ser banido por 84 anos. Versinthe é o nome do nosso Absinto e a cia é chamada Liquoristerie de Provence.
Eu compartilhei minha paixão por essências e perfumes com Marc que nos liderou a produzir Absolument Absinthe em 2006. A Cia tem sido recentemente premiada com o título de "Company of Living Heritage" pelo governo Francês.
Briefing para iniciar seu negócio de fragrâncias
A razão pela qual comecei a produzir perfume foi que eu estava decepcionado com os novos lançamentos de perfumes pelas grandes Cias.
Eu pensei que o negócio não estava suficientemente preocupado com as fragrâncias e sua qualidade, mas mais com o marketing. Os perfumes foram vendidos por pessoas que queriam fazer dinheiro fora disso e não era produtores.
Desde que eu tinha destilado aromas em contâiners que eram capazes de produzir essências e um famoso especialista de Grasse trabalhando conosco eu queria desenvolver perfumes que eu poderia gostar e que eu tinha respeito por.
Pontos essenciais para unir-se à indústria de perfumes como um empreendedor
Eu me envolvi com a criação de fragrâncias por duas razões: uma foi inspiração e outra frustração. Eu fui inspirado quando destilava absinto. Os aromas de várias plantas quando macerados são cativantes e inesquecíveis. O mix de aromas fez com que eu queresse engarrafar o cheiro e não somente o absinto.
A frustração veio dos lançamentos massivos de novas fragrâncias pelas grandes empresas de cosméticos e moda. O espírito em novos perfumes parecia almejar completamente o marketing e o lucro enquanto que a arte da perfumaria, de essências, parecia ter sido perdido.
Eu já estava produzindo meus licores de tanques com com uma história especial em perfumaria. Eles eram tanques usados para destilar a essência de rosa para Chanel nº 5. Meu partner era um reputado perfumista de Grasse, então eu tinha todos os elementos para fazer um perfume que viesse do velho espírito da perfumaria - um perfume que eu poderia respeitar.
Como você define o seu produto
Perfume Aa nasceu da moderna alquimia, um blend diferenciado no mundo mítico das essências. Notavelmente, "La Fee Verte", o legendário Green Fairy encontrado no Absinto com o mistério da canabis. Para compor esta fragrância cheia de arte, Aa traz uma sensualidade na pele com a combinação de notas florais e ambaradas com vegetais e amadeiradas. Meu produto também expressa um perfume bem pessoal, a real personalidade na fragrância com uma aura perfumada de luminosidade, sensualidade e também clean e profunda, habilidosamente misturada para encontrar a verdadeira arte mestre da perfumaria.
Como você define o seu negócio diferenciado entre os competidores
O que diferencia nós da maioria de outros perfumes no mercado é nossa paixão por fazer perfumes. O que nos excita são fragrâncias e cheiros e a arte da perfumaria, não estrelas e pessoas famosas em marketing ainda outro produto. Nós queremos conversar sobre o produto e quem o produz.
Como um dos poucos que fazem perfumes de verdade na França, nós sentimos que isso é essencial para transmitir nossas habilidades e compartilhar nossa paixão em fazer perfumes. Uma paixão por plantas e por cheiros, e para a arte da distilação, quando combinada com a ciência exata de misturar, permite a nos vivenciar momentos absolutos de alquimia. Estes momentos que desejamos compartilhar com vocês.
A criatividade envolvida na descoberta de novas fragrâncias permite que o perfumista produzida de forma brilhante com seus talentos artísticos. Então ele pode fazer com suas mãos composições poéticas que quando confrontadas podem brincar com as emoções e a imaginação.
Para estar em contato com a natureza da matéria prima, para descobrir suas qualidades, refiná-las e, então, usar nossos conhecimentos e intuição para misturá-las - este é a nossa habilidade artística.
Isso explica porque nós criamos uma palette de perfume que permitiremos que o público não somente crie seu próprio perfume, mas também entenda melhor nossa arte e, compartilhe em nossa cultura e momentos de alquimia a singularidade da habilidade do perfumista.
Estratégia da Cia e da marca para crescer o seu negócio
Nossa estratégia para crescimento está baseado em desenvolver conceitos únicos e usar embalagens inovadoras, como por exemplo os "squeezes" refiláveis de 3 ml ou as velas de massagem Aa ou a palette de perfume.
Nós continuamos desenvolvendo um mercado pequeno mas internacional com uma distribuição muito seletiva em boutiques de conceito que querem se distinguir da multidão. Nós nos orgulhamos em ter relações próximas com as boutiques e lojas, e logo somos capazes de oferecer novas promoções efetivas, em um estilo mais autônomo do que as campanhas de marketing em massa.
Estratégias para aumentar a linha de sua marca
Idéias originais e criatividade são o que expande nossa palette, melhor do que desenvolver produtos copy cat (produtos que reproduzem outras idéias e comportamentos já abordados).
Grandes e potenciais mercados e razões para o foco do crescimento
Nós estamos focados em todos os mercados europeus, América do Norte e América do Sul e, mais tarde, Oriente Médio. Estes são os principais mercados e sendo um produto de nicho, nós devemos focar em mercados grandes.
Sua definição de um empreendedor de perfume
Um empreendedor de perfume tem a paixão real por essências e fragrâncias. Ele(a) deve ter a habilidade de fazer com que seus sonhos sejam transformados em realidade e sensação em fragrâncias.
Principais aprendizados na indústria de perfumes
A principal coisa que eu tenho aprendido em fazer fragrância é a idéia de "perfeição" e um perfume excepcionial requer perfeição. No topo da linha de perfume, os pequenos detalhes carregam importância e todas as necessidades para serem relizadas e executadas perfeitamente. Seja em ingredientes, em fórmulas, no nome da marca, na embalagem e em todo o marketing que gira em torno do perfume, cada componente demanda perfeição. Tudo que faz um perfume incrível talvez seja a coisa mais difícil a criar.
Principal desafio de um empreendedor de perfume
O principal desafio de um empreendedor de perfume é produzir uma fragrância real de alta qualidade. Eu penso que eu já atingi com Absolument absinthe o desafio de produzir uma fragrância unisex com cheiro de pele usando absinto e canabis juntos com 49 essências. O perfume de pele é para mim uma nova tendência na direção de perfumes autênticos, complexos e refinados que diferenciam a personalidade e que precisam de cada indivíduo. Este chamado por inovação, mais elegante em fragrâncias, uma nova geração de nomes "Skin perfumes" que combina com a própria química de cada consumidor.
Absolument Absinthe se tornará único em cada diferente pele que é o que acontece frequentemente com o Aa que está realmente mudando bastante propondo uma cheiro único. É incrível ver como esta fragrância agrada tantas pessoas em tantos países diferentes.
O novo desafio poderia ser produzir o mais sensual e poderoso perfume, um pouco como Jean Baptiste Grenouille no livro O Perfume de Patrick Süskind.
Empresa/ casa de fragrância/marca que pode ser o modelo de Parfums D'Interdit
Eu acho que Guerlain Jicky foi realmente inovador e ousado. Em 1889, Jicky quebrou o perfume tradicional fazendo novos métodos: Não mais imitando a natureza, mas como uma jóia, criando novas emoções através da combinação de essências. É o primeiro perfume moderno e levou tempo para as mulheres adotarem Jicky.
Na verdade, homens foram os primeiros a usar isso, logo um perfume sutil com nenhuma divisão de gênero.
Liderança que o inspira
Minha inspiração vem de Marcel Pagnol, um escritor francês provenciano quando ele disse:
"Toul le monde savait que c'était impossibleil es venu un imbécile qui ne le savait paset qui l'a fait!"
"Todo mundo sabia que era impossível
ele se tornou um imbecil que não sabia disso
e o fez!"
Pascal Rolland é proprietário de Parfum D'Interdits e é um empreendedor de fragrâncias. Apaixonado por perfumaria de alta qualidade que valoriza as raízes tradicionais, Pascal Rolland e o especialista em perfumaria de Grasse Marc Villacèque criaram Absolument Absinthe, evocando a beleza de uma dos componentes mais mítidos e que havia sido proibido na França durante anos. Informações sobre Absolument Absinthe podem ser encontradas via internet no http://www.absolument.net/
Cristiane Gonçalves tem também uma extensa cultura geral, um background multilinguístico e uma sólida experiência em Management e Recursos Humanos adquirida em Cias de nível top como Johnson & Johnson, IBM and Unilever. Ela adora ser uma "Hunter de empreendedores de perfumes" e teve a visão deste portrait original de negócio em seu blog de perfumes para valorizar profissionais da indústria de perfumes tomados por um espírito excepcional de empreendedorismo. Se você está interessado (a) em contatá-la para assuntos de negócio, perfumaria e editorial de perfumes, ela pode ser contatada no cris.perfumedarosanegra@gmail.com
Interview by Cristiane Gonçalves for Articles Series " The portrait of the Fragrance Entrepreneur". Copyrighted for Part of The year of the France in Brazil by Perfume da Rosa Negra Photo credits: Parfum D'Interdits. Rights reserved, approved for noncomercial publication at PRN.
