Muitas vezes o inesperado nos traz boas surpresas. Confesso que não tinha a menor idéia de qual perfume selecionar para a crítica de hoje, mas como nem só de programação seletiva vive o homem, em busca de algo confortável e quente dentro de um limite não agressivo ao meu olfato, e de algum perfume adequado para um dia nublado e levemente fresco, quem sabe uma rajada extasiante de cor a uma tarde cinza chumbo, encontrei um grande tesouro perfumado. Em meio a inúmeras samples de fragrâncias descubro uma que nunca tinha sentido, nem ao menos notado sua delicada beleza, identificada por Chergui.
Morocco Tobacco
Um encantador acorde repleto de dulçor e leveza traz imagens desconexas de tecidos fluídos se movendo sob rajadas contínuas de um vento morno e desértico, notas entrelaçadas de tabaco, mel e rosa são as responsáveis por essa deliciosa harmonia de formas e movimento. Essa fluidez faz o perfume tornar-se cada vez mais interessante com o passar do tempo, a doçura inicial permanece na pele se mesclando a uma íris discreta e levemente powdery que finaliza o primeiro ato de Chergui sobre a pele.
Sob uma cadência constante o perfume continua vivo e caminha lentamente para uma fase um pouco mais quente, leve toques de âmbar começam a aparecer trazendo consigo um musk de excelente qualidade, esse dueto animálico não é carnal no sentido sexual, ao contrário disso, o musk e âmbar de Chergui traduzem a faceta sofisticada de apreciar um quadro repleto de cor e formas, uma distorção entre o que somos e como nos vemos, neste caso, sob o conceito de Lutens o que seriam os acordes animálicos em um apelo sexual se tornam mais elegantes.
Morocco Sand
Toda essa beleza é multifacetada. Além do confortável calor do âmbar e do musk, começa a surgir o acorde amadeirado de sândalo, levemente balsâmico, trazendo uma orientalidade mais intensa e noturna, os tecidos fluídos agora servem de adorno a corpos de pele morena que refletem sobre seus suores a luz de uma clara noite de luar intenso. Um acorde nebuloso vindo em nuvens de doce incenso são claramente notadas nesse momento o que deixa Chergui ainda mais fascinante.
Chergui consegue expressar originalidade de modo artisticamente perfeito, trazendo em seu cheiro uma miscelânea de sensações que variam e vibram de diferentes formas. O movimento neste perfume é constante, não há como negar que o perfume modifica-se e cria vida independente do usuário, em um mesmo dia Chergui pode possuir mil cheiros diferentes, mas todos possuirão a característica única do conforto, do calor e da sofisticação de notas muito bem trabalhadas para a obtenção de um mix digno de um pedestal em um museu de artes. O conceito criativo de Lutens consegue mais uma vez liderar o magnífico Christopher Sheldrake a criar não somente uma fragrância feita para vender, mas sim uma expressão de arte e sentimento, capaz de induzir o espectador desse espetáculo olfativo a estados alterados de consciência de si e do mundo à sua volta.
Poder de Fixação: 10 horas
Sillage: Forte
Drydown: Oriental especiado
Perfumista: Christopher Sheldrake
Notas: Tabaco, mel, rosa, âmbar, musk, íris, incenso e sândalo
Avaliação
Italo Wolff é escritor de fragrâncias de Alagoas, Brasil e é colaborador exclusivo para o Perfume da Rosa Negra.
English Version
Many times an unexpected moment bring us good surprises. I confess that I had no idea what perfume should I select for today's review, but the man does not need to live with an established plan, then I looked for something fragrant that would be comfortable and warm under a not annoying limit to my olfaction, some suitable perfume for a cloudy and softly fresh day, from a coloured breeze to a leaden evening, I found my precious fragrant treasure. In the middle of some perfume samples, I discovered one that I had never smelt, neither had never noticed its delicate beauty, named as Chergui.
Under a continuous cadence the perfume still is lively and develops slowly to a warmer phase with soft touches of amber that start to appear bringing an excellent high quality musk, this animalic duet is not carnal under a sexual meaning, on the contrary, the musk and the amber together translate the sophisticated facet of admiring a painting filled by colors and forms, a deformation between what we are and how we see us, in this case, what would be scentfully animalic with a sexual appeal, under the concept of Lutens they are modified to something more elegant, very well done with its delicateness scented trace.
All this beauty is multifaceted, besides the comfortable warmth of the amber and the musk, the sandalwood filled by a balsamic tone brings an intense and nocturnal facet, now soft fabrics adornated dark skins that have reflected on their sweat the light of a clear night of intense moonshine. A misterious accord appears as clouds of sweet incense which is clearly notable in this moment that let Chergui more and more fascinating.
Chergui is successful in expressing originality in an artistically perfect way, featuring in its scent a miscellaneous of sensations that varies and vibrate in different forms. The movement of this perfume is continuous, undoubtedly the perfume changes and creates life in an independent way, apart from its wearer, in one same day Chergui can possess thousand of different scents, but all have an unique comfort characteristic, warmth and sophistication in its well made mix that really deserves being in an Art museum. The creative concept of Lutens could one more time to lead the magnific Christopher Sheldrake to create not only a fragrance to be sold, but an art and a feeling expression, able of tempting the wearer of this olfactive spectacle to changing states of the perception about himself/herself and the world around.
Many times an unexpected moment bring us good surprises. I confess that I had no idea what perfume should I select for today's review, but the man does not need to live with an established plan, then I looked for something fragrant that would be comfortable and warm under a not annoying limit to my olfaction, some suitable perfume for a cloudy and softly fresh day, from a coloured breeze to a leaden evening, I found my precious fragrant treasure. In the middle of some perfume samples, I discovered one that I had never smelt, neither had never noticed its delicate beauty, named as Chergui.
An enchanting accord, sweet and light brings some disconnected images of fabrics moving under continuous soft and desertic breeze, notes interlaced by tobacco, honey and rose are responsible by this delightful harmony of forms and movement. This fluidness makes the perfume becoming more interesting in the course of the time, the initial sweetness is kept on the skin and is blended to a subtle iris, slightly powdery that ends the first performance of Chergui on the skin.
All this beauty is multifaceted, besides the comfortable warmth of the amber and the musk, the sandalwood filled by a balsamic tone brings an intense and nocturnal facet, now soft fabrics adornated dark skins that have reflected on their sweat the light of a clear night of intense moonshine. A misterious accord appears as clouds of sweet incense which is clearly notable in this moment that let Chergui more and more fascinating.
Chergui is successful in expressing originality in an artistically perfect way, featuring in its scent a miscellaneous of sensations that varies and vibrate in different forms. The movement of this perfume is continuous, undoubtedly the perfume changes and creates life in an independent way, apart from its wearer, in one same day Chergui can possess thousand of different scents, but all have an unique comfort characteristic, warmth and sophistication in its well made mix that really deserves being in an Art museum. The creative concept of Lutens could one more time to lead the magnific Christopher Sheldrake to create not only a fragrance to be sold, but an art and a feeling expression, able of tempting the wearer of this olfactive spectacle to changing states of the perception about himself/herself and the world around.
Longlasting power: 10 hours
Sillage: Strong
Drydown: Oriental spicy
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Tobacco, honey, rose, amber, musk, iris, incense and sandalwood
Evaluation
Italo Wolff is fragrance writer from Alagoas, Brazil and is exclusive collaborator for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
Perfume Review by Copyright Italo Wolff for Perfume da Rosa Negra
Photo credits: Serge Lutens (fragrance bottle), Shady Ladies, respectively, woven wood materials about Morocco Tobacco and Morocco Sand and Matisse Art Gallery lithography art. 
