terça-feira, 18 de agosto de 2009

Perfume Review: Fleurs D'Oranger, Serge Lutens

Review part of the Fabulous Fragrant World of Serge Lutens by Cris Rosa Negra. Now available in English language. To read the Portuguese version, click on here.

Fleurs D'Oranger, Serge Lutens

The orange tree is one of the most versatile raw materials source in the perfumery and one of the most powerful to make good use of it. The scent comes from the fruit bark , leaves and flowers. Among all plants, it has the divine gift of providing 4 essential oils to the fragrance metier. The petitgrain comes from the leaves and branches, the orange comes from the bark and the neroli and orange blossom come from flowers. It is a plant blessed by the nature mother.


Serge Lutens released Fleur D'Oranger, the floral oriental inspired by the richness of the orange blossom and, beautifully, added the beauty of these flowers and their olfactive power. The creativeness and sensibility connected to the nature is the highlight of the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake in this fragrance. Adding scented nuances of the orange blossom, sharing the layers of the fragrance in notes of neroli and these flowers as top and heart notes, joining this blossom to others ones such as the white jasmine, Indian tuberose and white rose without losing the mystery of the orange tree results in the composition of an exciting bucolic masterpiece through nature scents.

The start rescues concepts of sap and the mystery of the alchemy. The sap , which is the raw and physical material awakes all senses of these touchable scents. It is evident the presence of neroli, with the orange blossom and a little of jasmine.The mystery is given by the scent quality, the virtue of bringing to the olfactive memory the physical property that intends to be represented. The initial scent is peppery and reminds of the cumin note and the delicious flavors of the countryside recipes. Although there are first spicy tones, the flowers make the fragrance softer and the perfume has some "androgynous" characteristic as pictured on an orange blossom: a female side but an wearable approach for both sexies due to floral and spicy accords which are blended to each other.

Fleurs D'Oranger is fresh, but not the fresh citrusy of the orange. Citrusy feature is something that you'll not find here. Nothing is about citrus, bergamot and others. The freshness in the fragrance has freshness of the fields, from the wind that touches the face in a bucolic evening, from the lightness of the landscapes that become more distant with a contemplative glance, from the delicateness and magie of the young plays in countryside places. The images seen are also from a countryside family. The father, a perfume artisan who blends unique scents and flavors, the mother who cooks in earthware pans, the son and the daughter who play together and remind again of the unisex feature of the fragrance, peppery for men and floral for women. The passionate lovers couple making love in the quiet night. All is a sensual bucolism in Fleurs D'Oranger.

The perfume is quite oriental due to the presence of the neroli, that even is softened in heart notes, it has the incredible tenacity. The tenacity is the capacity of the note to be kept on skin without be completely volatile. In this case, the neroli that is the versatile classic note of the perfumery is also versatile enough in many moments on Fleurs D'Oranger. It starts very spicy and is rendered little by little by delicate undertones.

The tuberose here is a very peculiar tuberose, original for my olfaction but able to be recognised because it preserves the scented balance, also balancing the action of the jasmine. There are moments that the jasmine floats more to the skin, however is mixed to the penetrating tuberose, slightly warm, keeping the freshness and the velvety floral.

The therapeutic properties of the orange blossom are preserved, the fragrance continues a relaxing and tenuous. When Fleur D'Oranger is smelt on skin, the desire is to run calmly across the large countryside fields, run to meet the nature and, as a surrender action smell an gorgeous orange blossom.

Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra Originally published in portuguese language in 2007. Photo credits: Ad Fleurs D'Oranger by Serge Lutens
"Neroli" by aromatherpay.meetup.com
Bucolism, Source tripodi imagens

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