segunda-feira, 17 de agosto de 2009

Perfume Review: Datura Noir, Serge Lutens

Review part of the Fabulous Fragrant World of Serge Lutens by Cris Rosa Negra. Now available in English language. To read the Portuguese version, click on here.




Datura Noir, Serge Lutens



Datura Noir is the fragrance of the mysterious and hypnotic Datura flower, dissimulated as well as all notes of this perfume. The olfactive dissimulation in Serge Lutens is sweet, attractive and, tempestuously temporary like smelling some scented small shortcuts, it seduces us to make us follow various ways, all efferverscent and, at the same time, serene, such as paradoxes that are joined , for the goodness or the evil. The notes cover what they are as refuges in this way, they can confuse our olfaction like stones able to make us fall and, at the same time, the desire that we 'll have is to raise again and find the map of this olfactive labyrinth , map that only Serge Lutens has.


Datura noir is one of these pieces composed as this olfactive dissimulation in form of liquid in a bottle. The fragrance doesn't pretend very much, simply because its initial defense mechanism is only a type of seduction and a distinguishable feature of the fragrance. The development is gradual and fascinating and the unique hostile intention of the perfume is poisoning us with this Datura Flower, rare , diabolic and nocturnal flower.


The start of the perfume opens all possible ways like a labyrinth, practically the main notes featured are Datura flower, almond, coconut, tuberose and heliotrope.
Above all, the blending of notes is sultry and instigant with waves of a superb captivating scent in the start. The almondy sweetness, the narcotic tuberose, the softness delights of the coconut provoke the undestroyable desire of knowing the Datura Flower and meet the delightful accords on base such the vanilla, the tonka bean and the musk. The sweet scent gets to asphyxiate the olfaction like a drug that brings a freedom sensation.




Remembrance of a Garden, Paul Klee



To those who have a memorable experience of facing many shortcuts in form of olfactive notes, the scented labyrinth in Datura Noir is like an abstract painting that, although apparently connected without nexus, still seems to have an organization. A fragrant art that joins innumerous images of raw materials, not so clear but present. The floral notes are like to stare the memory of a garden, such a painting of Paul Klee, they are there, but not yet as protagonists of the evolution. The others notes serve like obstination focuses, something that provokes the desire and its accomplishment. The desire of being vain smelling the soft and sweet body of these notes.


In a short time, after the majestic start in this olfactive labyrinth, the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake proves that olfactive and free sensations are part of his niche alchemy. The sweetness decreases in a very expressive way, almondy notes open space to slight vanilic floral touches that possess the fragrance. In this moment, it is like to see a new shortcut, iluminated, elegant and adorned with Datura flowers. The flower, initially dissimulated, is opened on skin, revealing its magnitude and from its creator. Sometimes it stays sweeter, sometimes more almondy like scented paths which are opened in a surprising manner.


After, the perfume reaches its most comfortable moment. The hypnotic character becomes calmer like someone that opens his/her arms to a sensual and caring hug. The tonka bean note is apparent and soft together to vanilla, both seductive to a sniff on skin providing an hedonic sense also through a discrete scent of chocolate. The remembrance of a fragrant labyrinth is continuous, however now the same is not enclosed anymore, the flowers have bloomed and opened a new scented path for all others notes of the Lutens(ian) Datura Noir.







Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra for Perfume da Rosa Negra Originally published in portuguese language in 2007.
Foto: Arte Remembrance of a Garden , Paul Klee
Vídeo: Datura flower , courtesia Youtube


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