terça-feira, 11 de maio de 2010

The Winners: Die Duftstars 2010 - The German Fifi Awards 2010

English version. Comments by Cris Rosa Negra, PRN fragrance writer

On May,07th it was held in the Station-Berlin, Die Duftstars Parfum Preis 2010,  led by German Fragrance Foundation and had the presence of the singer Toni Braxton to enjoy the party (despite we would prefer Xavier Naidoo and his german soul). German FF staff is very practical also to award finalists because they divide the awards in 4 main perfume categories, optimizing the celebration: the classic ("Klassiker"), the exclusive ("Exklusiv"), the Lifestyle ("Lifestyle") and the most expected, the prestige one  ("Prestige"), besides there is the traditional public choice, the Life   Achievement award (an homage for a icon and his/her contribution in the achievements in this segment) and the choice of the marketing campaign. And the The German Fifi Awards 2010 winners are:


Women: Chanel Allure
Men: Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male


Women: Marc Jacobs Lola e Narciso Rodriguez Essence
Men: Tom Ford Grey Vetiver


Women: Kate Moss Vintage
Men: David Beckham Signature Story for him


Women: Dior Miss Dior Chèrie L'eau

Consumer's choice - Lifestyle
Women: Christina Aguilera By Night
Men: MEXX Black Man

Consumer's choice - Prestige
Women: Hugo Boss Orange

Marketing's campaign - perfume
Yves Saint Laurent - Parisienne

Under the business point of view, in the prestige and  prestige consumer's choice there is NO surprises, as well as there are not big surprises in these perfume awards when the key is to recognise who is hype in the perfumery. Hugo Boss Orange and Paco Rabanne 1 Million have already pleased the fragrant taste of the major audience, including also Brazilians in the Latin America Perfumery Oscar. Particularly, Hugo Boss Orange does not bring any distinguishable prestige in terms of olfactory quality, however  it is a versatile perfume and has a subtle and pleasant vanilic base which enjoys women's olfaction. Paco Rabanne 1 Million is one of these successful business case in the mainstream perfumery bringing to consumer a youthful perfume which features a sparkling touch of mandarin and inspires us to imagine young man full of money, women and cars, handsome and stilish guy, besides Paco Rabanne 1 Million's marketing campaign  is so powerful that provokes the male desire of being virile and sexier with ladies. Miss Dior Chérie L'eau is not better than the traditional one which has a better mix in its champagne gourmand accord, however, for the german consumer audience, the idea of cleaniness with a delicate fragrant facet works better and, also, the Miss Dior Chérie as a perfume brand is one of the wisest in the recent perfumery, keeping a coeherent, unique and captivating marketing campaign.

In the exclusive category, which differs from the prestige in number of stores where there is selective distribution, Tom Ford always rocks and, recently, he has released her makeup line and also featured his first movie in the Cinema, A single man, all just confirms he has a good taste for what is beautifully aesthetical, very aligned to his purposes as an entrepreneur.Vetiver Grey also is well done with a traditional pungent note, the vetiver, but here it is very luxurious under the demanding nose of Tom Ford. On the other hand, an other guy who is very demanding, the fashion Designer Marc Jacobs, also brings a glamurous pop style,unique from 80's and with a classic vintage touch in his fashion contemporaneity.The name of the fragrance is LOLA, with lovely flacon twirling some coloured fabrics. Narciso Rodriguez and his eternal love for the musk also reaches the priceless pureness featuring aldeydics accords in his   Essence. It's a perfume for a chic toilette, white, essential, what gives a better dimension that the luxury is something very simple.

The Lifestyle category, even there is some ordinary winning fragrances,had a good result because what matters here is the style. Realize that Kate Moss, with less or more wink is still a stylish woman and she is , definitely, part of the rare woman who have a wonderful cool style, besides she is a top model who is influential to rule fashion. Featuring Vintage she would bring a more glamurous facet in her personality and declares her love for the vintage references which have inspired her. The soccer player David Beckham blendes his work as a famous sport man and the public image which is very similar to a Hollywoodian star. He is self-confessed metrosexual, devote for the love of his eternal spice Girl, the fashionable Victoria, and he is also an example of family's father and a man who dedicates to the sport  that is, he has all the key elements which combines to a healthy, attractive and familiar style. On the other hand, the modern pin up Christina Aguilera has a very unique style in the pop scene fascinating her fans with her remarkable voice and incarnates the diva of her own "celebrity cabaret", something that nobody is able of doing equally, besides her fetichist approach as a muse becomes her a distinctive woman, even though her perfume is very commom

Now the best recognition of the night was the classic category, totally predictable and aligned to the attraction and loyalty power that only rare and outstanding fragrances have across the decades. Chanel Allure reinforces the allurement of all Chanel women and, Jean Paul Gautier Le Male, even if is very used in the nocturnal flertation, is a perfume that nobody is able of imitating with some dignity. Besides, there is a strong concept  behind these perfumes. JPG always exalts the man, mainly the charm of the gay man and Chanel, the icon of classical femininity and luxury that celebrates the unique style of a woman which is beyond her beauty and her clothing.

Finally, the choice of Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne campaign was fair because seeing Kate Moss feeling pleasure among roses in a limosine is a deserving hype, but this perfume could not keep the same of its ad campaign what  has caused a regretful lack of cohesion between the parisien luxury presented in the commercial and the perfume by itself, which is a  very simple and unsensual scent. The "Life Achievement Awards" for Leonard A Lauder was great; he is one of the key business men in Estée Lauder,the giant cosmetics company that, decided to work with partnership with Tom  Ford in some years and could renew more and more its name for the love of perfumery and beauty.

As you can realize, the German "perfumery Oscar" was coherent, but still preserve how these fragrant awards are predictable. Now it is time to wait for the father of the "FIFI's Awards, the american one.

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