quinta-feira, 27 de agosto de 2009

Perfume Review: Clair de Musc, Serge Lutens

Review part of the Fabulous Fragrant World of Serge Lutens by Cris Rosa Negra. Now available in English language. To read the Portuguese version, click on here.

Clair de Musc, Serge Lutens

When we look at a perfume bottle, we don't visualise only its packaging, its format, its details and colors; we look beyond the bottle. We look at its liquid, its tonality, its scent, its texture. After that, we imagine how is its olfactory development on skin, the sensations are able to awake our senses, its virtues and its imperfections and, finally, we think how will be the soul of the fragrance, its mystery, its richness. Clair de Musc, as its name refers makes me think of the transparency of the musk, note that symbolises the soul in this fragrance. As any soul, this olfactory note has the weight of a crystal that reflects its vivacity on skin, as well as the soul that shines and rises from the darkness.

The liquid color is not so transparent, but Clair de Musc's accords are clear and rich in their simplicity. The fragrance has main notes of white musk, powdery musk (also known as pudriger Moschus, in german or Musc Poudré, in French), Bergamot, Neroli, Jasmine, Tuscan Iris, Mysore Santal and ambrette seeds. A variety of notes which enriches the transparent scent in its plenitude; notes that dialog among them and are complemented by each other.

Clair de Musc is delicately powdery by the poudré musk and iris influences. This effect is protagonist in the initial olfactory development, however it is noticeable that this effect is not about any type of
powdery scent. It is about a refreshing powdery odour, influenced by the supporting action of the bergamot which does not have the interpretation of the overly citrusy pattern, this odour brings the sensation of the day and its clarity as well as the refined poudré freshness on skin sparkling by the sunshine.

In proportion that the perfume develops, the tenuous powdery undertones are blended to the floral accords. In this moment, more jasmine and less neroli. The subtle jasmine supports the floral base and, in a very interesting way, does not invade the poudré musk block because the jasmine joins the abstract of the fragrance, its heavenly facet. Its flowery accords are there but reacting like the act of cutting a crystal which on it is observed a face and, in other cutting piece is seen the other face.

The neroli, known by its spicy quality, assumes other role in this human ethereal fragrance. Its frustrating role is to bring the fragrance to the earthy base, however the spicy is almost null, only perceptible if the skin is sniffed closer . The beauty of the neroli in Clair de Musc is to reinforce the spiritual character which is its distinguishable feature: an untouchable composition, an angelical beauty that cannot be completely mundane; a beauty that values the white musk and others musky scented raw materials as poudré and the ambrette seeds.

The Creation of Adam

In Clair de Musc there is no space for perfume-body, that is being animalic and provocative as a earthy uniqueness. Here, what is fascinating is the pureness of the perfume soul that places Clair de Musk as something superior, ethereal and luminous. It is like to wear a white chiffon dress, fluid and made by a transparent fabric, close my eyes and imagine myself on white clouds touching the hands of God, the Lord.

Musks, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, Mysore Santal, Tuscan iris powder and ambrette seeds.
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

Perfume Review by Copyright Cristiane Gonçalves for Perfume da Rosa Negra. Originally published in portuguese language in 2007.
Photo credits: Clair de Musc, Site Serge Lutens Shiseido
The Creation of Adam, sources: Sacred Destinations and Global Gallery

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