O que esperar de uma marca de cosméticos japonesa que tem como lema a criatividade e a força da imagem e do designer, fabricando cosméticos e perfumes desde 1872, quando o fundador da marca apresentou ao Japão a primeira farmácia de estilo ocidental. Com a formação intelectual dos chefes da marca foi-se introduzindo tecnologias de ponta, importadas da Europa e dos Estados Unidos, para a melhoria de seus produtos, desta forma a marca se tornou conhecida e conquistou inúmeros clientes.
A publicidade, conquistada com imagem e designer, tem sido até hoje o diferencial desta marca. Com estilo único que une objetos e símbolos da cultura japonesa às modernas técnicas de fotografia artística e arte de um modo geral, onde as cores e a mulher são mostradas em toda sua totalidade, atingindo níveis de expressão e profundidade admiráveis. Foi a partir desse conceito que Serge Lutens tornou-se o embaixador da estética publicitária dos produtos Shiseido, com suas fotografias altamente modernas que misturam simbologia japonesa aos produtos repletos de tecnologia ocidental.
Venho hoje brindar com vocês um dos marcos da perfumaria mundial, criado na década de 1990, que segundo o début "é um tributo à arte japonesa, ao charme interior e misterioso e à beleza sofisticada e espiritual". O famoso Feminite du Bois de Christopher Sheldrake em cooperação com Pierre Bourdon. Um oriental amadeirado e inovador em meio à maré de florais e abaunilhados que assolava a época de seu lançamento, algo inovador onde o choque cultural era o centro da criação, introduzir a cultura japonesa e sua tradição aromática de condimentos e rituais de incenso em meio ao caos tecnológico do ocidente.
Em uma década marcada pela liberação sexual, que passou até a ser imposta ao mundo de modo cada vez mais comum. Um mundo moderno onde o sexo biológico é o que menos importa, onde o que deve realmente fazer sentido é a expressão múltipla do interior, o desejo de transcender barreiras e tabus ultrapassados de uma cultura altamente homofóbica. Como o animismo japonês nos diz, tudo tem espírito, até mesmo os objetos brutos possuem uma alma, e almas são também assexuadas, não sendo exclusivamente masculinas ou femininas, assim é Femininite du Bois, um ovni das fragrâncias, precursor do unissex, dito feminino, mas que não segue a linha doce e floral de seu gênero.
Com uma saída altamente densa que assusta pela potência e estranheza de componentes, principalmente o desiquílibrio do cedro. Em um primeiro momento há uma manifestação de gengibre que, instantaneamente, mescla-se a acordes de rosa e mel in natura; esse mix especiado é acrescido de uma nota central mais quente que lembra canela e pimenta escura em porções iguais e equilibradas. No fim dessa complexa saída há predominância de uma nota de cedro escuro. Na evolução a estupefação continua, para deixar o aroma mais complexo e confuso, um cálido aroma de neroli que é açoitado por cravo e cardamomo, abre-se uma fase resinosa e ainda mais quente, composta por cera de abelha perceptível como uma resina em ebulição, a mística nota de violeta surge em meio a esse baile oriental de especiarias e refresca a fase quente , onde o tom central é dado pelo cravo e resinas. Até aqui não há nada que lembre nem de longe o conceito de perfumaria clássica em relação a aromas femininos.
Angelina Jolie, 2008 Shiseido beauty Pub
Sexy, desejada por homens e mulheres e libertária,
seria Angelina um bom novo rosto para
Shiseido Feminite du Bois depois de mais de uma década?
Sexy, desired by women and men and libertarian,
would be Angelina a good new good face
for Shiseido Feminite du Bois after one decade?
Na verdade há uma mistura de ambos os sexos, nas suas vibrações florais percebe-se o espírito frágil e delicado da mulher e nas especiarias, resinas e madeiras quentes, vê-se a figura masculina. É como se o perfume pintasse em nossos corpos a marca da pureza suprema, um ser evoluído que não necessita mais de meras definições sociais para sentir-se completo, seja como homem ou como mulher. Uma figura multissexual aberta a experiências indefinidas.
A fase final é a mais linda de todas, onde os aromas se fundem e partem para um final memorável, repleto de cedro, mirra, musk e baunilha aromática, nada doce como as que estamos acostumados a sentir hoje, como a libertação espiritual de alguém que se vê livre de seu Karma e parte para outros planos a fim de completar sua missão.
Só me resta aplaudir a essa odisséia aromática, repleta de significados altamente sociológicos e de novos conceitos de sexualidade e contando com o mundo espiritual de modo a enviar nossos pedidos para Deus como faziam os antigos em suas aromáticas nuvens de incenso.
Italo Wolff é escritor de perfumes de Alagoas (Brasil) e colaborador exclusivo para o Perfume da Rosa Negra
(English version)
What expecting from a japanese cosmetics brand which has as motto the creativeness and the image and designer forces, producing cosmetics and fragrances sinde 1872, when the brand's founder presented to Japan the first pharmacy in West style. With the intellectual background of the brand's leaders was introduced high end technologies, imported from Europe and United States for a continuous product improvement, in this way, Shiseido become a well-known brand and won various customers.
The publicity, conquered with image and designer, has been until now the distinctive feature of the brand. Through its unique style which joins objects and symbols of the japanese culture to the modern technique of the artistic photograph and art, in a general manner, where the colors and the woman are showed in a fully way, reaching deep levels of expression and admiration. It was from this concept that Serge Lutens become the ambassador of the advertisement aesthetics of Shiseido products, with his highly modern photos which blended japanese symbology to the west technology.
Today I come here to celebrate with you one of the marks in the world perfumery, created in 1990, which is according to the début "is a tribute to the japanese art, to the interior charm and mystery and to the sophisticated and spiritual beauty". The famous Feminite of Christopher Sheldrake in collaboration with Pierre Bourdon. An innovative woody in the middle of the florals and vanilla fragrances which are also in those times of its release, something creative where the cultural shock was the attention's center, introducing the japanese culture and its aromatic tradition of spicies and incense rituals in the middle of the technologic chaos of the West.
In one decade where the sexual liberation started to be imposed to the world as something more and more common. A modern world where the biological sex is what less concerns, where what makes sense is the multiple inner self expression, the desire of transcending barriers and surpassed taboos of an highly homofobic culture. As the japanese animism which say us that everything has spirit, even the brut elements have a soul, and souls are not exclusively male or female, that is Feminite du Bois, an ovni of fragrances, predecessor of unisex, said as female fragrance, but that does not follow the gender of sweet and flowery scents.
With an highly dense opening which scares by the potency and strangness of the materials, mainly the unbalance of cedarwood. In one first moment,there is ginger appearing which, instantly, is mixed with the chords of rose and honey in natura; in this spicy mix is added a central note, warmer which reminds me of cinnamon and dark pepper in equal and balancing portions. At the end of this complex opening, there is predominancy of the dark cedarwood. In the evolution, the surprise continues, to let the aroma more complex and confusing, a warm aroma of neroli which is beaten by clove and cardamon, is open the resinuous phase and warmer, composed by a perceptible beeswax as a resin boiling, the mystical violet note appears in the middle of a oriental fragrant ballroom of spicies and refreshes the warm phase, where the central tone is given by the clove and the resins.
Until here there is anything which reminds me of the classical perfumery related to the female aromas. Truly, there is a mix of both sexies, in its floral vibrations is realized the fragile and delicate spirit of a woman and in the spicies, resins and war woodies, it is clear the male figure. It is like the perfume painted in our bodies the supreme pureness mark, one evoluted human being who does not need anymore social definitions to feel himself/herself complete, be as a man or as a woman. A multisexual figure opened to undefinite experiences. The final phase is the most beautiful , where the aromas are fused and go to a memorable final , full of cedar, myrh, musk and aromatic vanilla , nothing sweet as we are used to feel nowadays. Feminite du Bois is like someone's spiritual freedom, someone who is free of his/her karma and goes to others surfaces to complete his/her mission.
I just need to applaud this aromatic odyssey, full of social meanings and new sexuality concepts, counting on the spiritual world in order to send our requests to God as made by the Antiquity people with their aromatic incense clouds.
Italo Wolff is fragrance writer from Alagoas, Brazil and is collaborator for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
Images: Shiseido Japan and Shiseido International. All rights reserved
The publicity, conquered with image and designer, has been until now the distinctive feature of the brand. Through its unique style which joins objects and symbols of the japanese culture to the modern technique of the artistic photograph and art, in a general manner, where the colors and the woman are showed in a fully way, reaching deep levels of expression and admiration. It was from this concept that Serge Lutens become the ambassador of the advertisement aesthetics of Shiseido products, with his highly modern photos which blended japanese symbology to the west technology.
Today I come here to celebrate with you one of the marks in the world perfumery, created in 1990, which is according to the début "is a tribute to the japanese art, to the interior charm and mystery and to the sophisticated and spiritual beauty". The famous Feminite of Christopher Sheldrake in collaboration with Pierre Bourdon. An innovative woody in the middle of the florals and vanilla fragrances which are also in those times of its release, something creative where the cultural shock was the attention's center, introducing the japanese culture and its aromatic tradition of spicies and incense rituals in the middle of the technologic chaos of the West.
In one decade where the sexual liberation started to be imposed to the world as something more and more common. A modern world where the biological sex is what less concerns, where what makes sense is the multiple inner self expression, the desire of transcending barriers and surpassed taboos of an highly homofobic culture. As the japanese animism which say us that everything has spirit, even the brut elements have a soul, and souls are not exclusively male or female, that is Feminite du Bois, an ovni of fragrances, predecessor of unisex, said as female fragrance, but that does not follow the gender of sweet and flowery scents.
With an highly dense opening which scares by the potency and strangness of the materials, mainly the unbalance of cedarwood. In one first moment,there is ginger appearing which, instantly, is mixed with the chords of rose and honey in natura; in this spicy mix is added a central note, warmer which reminds me of cinnamon and dark pepper in equal and balancing portions. At the end of this complex opening, there is predominancy of the dark cedarwood. In the evolution, the surprise continues, to let the aroma more complex and confusing, a warm aroma of neroli which is beaten by clove and cardamon, is open the resinuous phase and warmer, composed by a perceptible beeswax as a resin boiling, the mystical violet note appears in the middle of a oriental fragrant ballroom of spicies and refreshes the warm phase, where the central tone is given by the clove and the resins.
Until here there is anything which reminds me of the classical perfumery related to the female aromas. Truly, there is a mix of both sexies, in its floral vibrations is realized the fragile and delicate spirit of a woman and in the spicies, resins and war woodies, it is clear the male figure. It is like the perfume painted in our bodies the supreme pureness mark, one evoluted human being who does not need anymore social definitions to feel himself/herself complete, be as a man or as a woman. A multisexual figure opened to undefinite experiences. The final phase is the most beautiful , where the aromas are fused and go to a memorable final , full of cedar, myrh, musk and aromatic vanilla , nothing sweet as we are used to feel nowadays. Feminite du Bois is like someone's spiritual freedom, someone who is free of his/her karma and goes to others surfaces to complete his/her mission.
I just need to applaud this aromatic odyssey, full of social meanings and new sexuality concepts, counting on the spiritual world in order to send our requests to God as made by the Antiquity people with their aromatic incense clouds.
Italo Wolff is fragrance writer from Alagoas, Brazil and is collaborator for Perfume da Rosa Negra.
Images: Shiseido Japan and Shiseido International. All rights reserved
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