sábado, 28 de março de 2009

Perfume & Business: Mais perfumes masculinos/ More male fragrances



Esta semana participei de um grupo de discussão sobre a indústria de fragrâncias e um dos tópicos lançados por uma famosa formadora de opinião do ramo
citou um comentário lançado na Woman's Wear Daily(uma publicação americana):

"Historicamente, os perfumes femininos sempre venderam mais que os masculinos. Este não é o caso atualmente."

Fiquei tão empolgada com a discussão que não resisti a vir até aqui e compartilhar com o leitor a respeito desta questão, mesmo porque acredito que o papel de um bom escritor de fragrâncias, além de ser um expert de perfumes, seja ser sensível à indústria de perfumes, ser uma voz a ser escutada e, principalmente, educar o leitor para uma reflexão a respeito da criação atual de fragrâncias.


Embora o comentário da Woman's Wear Daily foque a realidade americana de vendas atuais, a discussão tomou âmbito global sobre a situação das fragrâncias masculinas e, principalmente, conclui-se que os homens não têm tido oferta de perfumes de qualidade, nem ao menos, eles têm tido lançamentos condizentes com seu novo papel na sociedade e suas necessidades de consumo. Basta ver que além das opções masculinas não trazerem nenhum conteúdo criativo, entende-se hoje no mercado que muitas fragrâncias femininas possam servir para os homens, mas convém dizer que perfumes unissex e femininos à parte, os homens têm necessidades diferentes de uma mulher, os gostos pessoais e hábitos de consumo das mulheres não podem ditar as regras da perfumaria masculina.


Para esquentar a discussão a promomagazine.com lançou um artigo no qual se confirma que " o declínio das vendas de fragrâncias sofreram queda para ambos os sexos, 5% de queda nas femininas e 8% de queda nas masculinas"
; ou seja, nenhuma novidade para quem acompanha o que vem sendo lançado no mercado, lembrando que, na mesma reportagem, o ranking de vendas americano têm top 5 conforme abaixo:
  1. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme
  2. Beautiful
  3. Coco Mademoiselle
  4. Light Blue
  5. Chanel No. 5
Ao analisar este ranking e, conhecendo melhor estas fragrâncias, é possível verificar que Acqua di Gio é um perfume masculino amplamente usado por mulheres, ou seja, ele é um curinga como Ck One, logo isso não significa que os homens encontraram a fragrância eterna para seus pescoços. Beautiful de Estée Lauder lançado em 1986 e os de Chanel, Coco Mademoiselle em 2001 e Chanel No. 5 em 1921 pertencem a tradicionais empresas, perfumes femininos consagrados e nada recém lançados. Light Blue, lançado em 2001 é um dos perfumes mais compartilháveis que existem e um dos mais facéis de usar, sendo bastante preferido entre as mulheres para o dia a dia. E onde estão os perfumes masculinos? Avaliando esta lista, a lealdade dos consumidores têm mantido estes top 5, mas o que será das vendas se novos perfumes a serem consagrados não chegarem ao gosto fiel dos consumidores? Quais os novos perfumes que sustentarão vendas de alta performance e, ao mesmo tempo, atenderão a satisfação constante dos consumidores?


Coloco abaixo os principais pontos de meus comentários ( disponível somente em inglês) para que você, caro leitor e consumidor de perfumes, possa refletir sobre estas nuances que relacionam a perfumaria e nossas escolhas de consumo. O objetivo deste tópico é a educação perfumística, sempre que necessário. Não é demagogia sobre perfumes, mas é para que você desenvolva uma visão crítica sobre perfumaria, antes de comprar um perfume e, ao fim, escolher aquele que realmente tenha a ver com você. A indústria de perfumes só fará perfumes melhores, principalmente para os homens que não têm tido grandes opções, quando o consumidor começar a exigir isso. Pense nisso e boa reflexão!


(English version)



This week I participated in a discussion group about fragrances industry and one of the topics released by a famous perfume opinion maker mentioned a comment published in the Woman's Wear Daily(an american publication)

"Historically, women's scents have always outsold men's. That is not the case today".

I felt so excited by the discussion that I could not resist in coming here and share it with my readers about this issue, because I believe that the role of a good fragrance writer, more than being a perfumes expert, is also be sensitive to the perfume industry, be a voice to be listened and, mainly, educate the reader for a reflection about the fragrance making nowadays.

Although the comment of Woman's Wear Daily focuses the american reality of actual sales, the discussion was taken by a global overview about the situation of the male fragrances production and, mainly, it was concluded that men have not had a real offer of quality male perfumes , telling the truth, they haven't had releases aligned to their new role in the society and their consumer needs. Just see that few male fragrances have brought some creativeness, it is understood that many fragrances can be wearable by men and women, but unisex fragrances apart, the reality is that women and men have different needs, the personal tastes and consumer habits of women cannot validate the rules of the male perfumery.

Burning the discussion, the promomagazine.com published an article in which is confirmed that the
"The decline in fragrance sales dropped for both genders, down 5% in women’s and 8% in men’s fragrances, NPD found"; that is clear when we realize that there is almost any new about male fragrances, just remember you that , in this article, the fragrances sales ranking in US, the top 5 are:
  1. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme
  2. Beautiful
  3. Coco Mademoiselle
  4. Light Blue
  5. Chanel No. 5
When this ranking is better analysed and, when is known about these fragrances, it is possible to verify that Acqua di Gio is a male fragrance that is largely wore by women, is a "easy to wear neutral fragrance" as Ck One is, then this does not mean that men have found the eternal fragrance for their necks. Beautiful of Estée Lauder released in 1986 and the Chanel ones, Coco Mademoiselle in 2001 and Chanel No. 5 in 1921 belong to traditional companies, renowned female perfumes and produced many years ago. Light Blue, released in 2001 is one of the most wearable fragrances that exist and one of the easier to wear, also favourite among women for a daily fragrance. And where are the male perfumes? Evaluating this list, the loyalty of the consumers have kept these top 5, but what about the future sales if new perfumes to be renowded don't please the loyal taste of consumers? Which will be the new perfumes that will sustain outstanding sales and, on the same time, meet the regular consumer satisfaction?


I put below the main points of my comments in the discussion ( available only in english) for you, dear reader and perfume consumer, be able to reflect about these nuances which are related to perfumery and our consumer choices. The goal of this topic is the perfume education, always necessary. That is not demagogy about fragrances, but for you be able to develop a critic vision about perfumery, before buying a perfume and, finally, select one which really is connected to you. The perfume industry only will make better fragrances, mainly for men who have not had great options, when the consumer starts to demand it. Think about it and go
od reflection!

Comments for reflection : More male fragrances
(by Cris Rosa Negra at foro Fragrance industry business group)

Dear all, that is a good and complex question since there are many different moments in the aroma culture in each country which, consequently, guide the consumers' choices and also all the perfume making and sales chain. Personally, I believe that , in the case of US, there is some traditional result in the actual sales which reflects the reality how the country face and focus its perfume creation. The case here, it is not only about massificate the creation in women's fragrances , women who guide the consumer habits in the beauty industry and seem to have the final answer for anything that has to be created to gain one more market share piece, but the case is that the industry does not work on the men's needs very much and the few releases that are in the market are tasteless for most of the men (and women), excluding the great classics which brought some consumer loyalty.

Now they are more proactive to look at men's needs but not enough in the reality yet ( I hope new men's fragrances come), because men are more demand, vainer, more concerned to have the best fragrance for a sensual attaction or just be fragrant . One good example in some focus groups are the homossexual men (which , in theorical terms, have a "female soul" and are heavy fragrance consumers), they are not looking for a female fragrance, they are looking for a male fragrance. Moreover even I understand that fragrance would have no "sex division" it is a pro to have more creativeness and research for men's needs.

Looking at global fragrance markets and the traditional choices of US market, I think companies have more and more to create and produce global fragrances which show some "sinergy" with others world regions because the fragrance consumer in US is still focused on very "clean fragrances" as Acqua di Gió and that is not the reality of the men's needs in most parts of our globe.

I share your thoughts about the complexity of tests comparing all these varities of themes such as diet, ethnicity and others and bringuing this issue to the reality of men's fragrances discussion, it is evident that, despite all the careful and valid analysis in perfume making, the "must-have" attention to this audience must be improved and I really think the male fragrances don't need to be as Jicky, so animalic one as well as women are not overly interested in having Nº 5 forever on their skins. I believe that the trendy is the naturality on skin, an exclusive and smelly naturality which makes the difference and can bem impressive with high quality notes according to some specific briefing about what the brand represents and what wants to achieve, in all its focuses. The naturality allows to bring the fragrant intersection point among many cultures, for example and is like to wake up naturally fragrant. Because of it, some niche fragrances are so incredible. If it is added a secret and outstanding note on it, so men and women will identify themselves globally. If the industry achievement is just market share, so any receipt is enough for the industry and we are going to see only different fragrance labels and marketing campaigns, the perfume will have the same odour.

The problem which I see is that women's fragrances nowadays are not wearable for men, they have some ideal of romantic way of being or they are very "Barbie", so the point is not more women's fragrances than men's fragrances, but women's fragrances of this contemporaneity don't work as Jicky worked in the past in the men's skins. Just think about the celebrity fragrances, which are floral or fruity floral ones, so analysing it, men and women don't have chances to share fragrances, unless men wish smelling as Britney Spears and J. Lo's. I think there is some hope yet when I think about Dior Homme, a good iris approach for men, well-done and different that any other fragrances done in the past, however could not see remarkable fragrances in the Fifi awards nominees.

Certainly the contribution of this group is a wonderful signal that we all are aligned to some innovative results expectations in this industry, mainly about men's fragrances. First of all, we are perfume consumers and better perfumes better consumers we will be . Today I took a look at this article of promomagazine and the confirmation about "The decline in fragrance sales dropped for both genders, down 5% in women’s and 8% in men’s fragrances, NPD found" is no surprise for most of us. I love the fact that wellness is growing, truly believe on this segment development, so if we think that selecting a great fragrance and be happily fragrant is a wellness habit, so wellness attitudes can change perfume purchasing habits.

It is clear that droppings are coming in the prestige beauty sales,mainly in fragrances because consumers have been awaken that they need a better offering,mainly men, so at the end of any purchasing action will be the "emotional choice and the education " related to a fragrance which fits the best on a man which will make him buy the product. If there is no connection to his reality, so sales will be decreased naturally. This is a normal cycle and will just happen if consumers think better what they want to find in a perfume. It is a self-knowledge process and a wonderful world to discover. Education, as said wisely by our friend, is all, no matter the field.

Moreover some women consumer habits which drive some standard massive consumer guidelines in perfumery nowadays will saturate because women love products beauty news, love to consume but they are also changing their behaviours and becoming more critical about quality (and if they choose their men's fragrances, so I expect they will realize men deserve the best one), so I hope one day they will realize that some fragrances don't have longevity to be bought for her or for him and, in the middle of the consumer priorities and family budget controls,qualified fragrances will survive .


The ranking of fragrances exposed by the article confirms these fragrances are produced a long time ago , fragrances like Beautiful and Chanel n. 5 never will be out of any ranking. Pay attention that the consumer loyalt is keeping these fragrances ahead... but and the new ones? Can you imagine their positions in the ranking? Maybe they are not in the ranking, maybe they are too far and will not be transformed in blockbusters fragrances, becoming future classics.

An interesting point is that the men's fragrance market is something as "incoherent" when considering that men are more connected to a better knowledge of their beauty desires, they are more concerned about their bodies, their clothes, their fashion styles and, as said by a master perfumer, the fashion is the market that guides the perfumery, so why is there no connection in the reality ? At the end of all, what people want is a product which is aligned to what they are and what they believe.

Oh yes industry, we all want fragrant men in the world. They deserve it! I still believe in the great professionals of this perfume industry.

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