Após uma longa viagem olfativa por tantas óperas de Puccini, chego aqui à última experiência desta maravilhosa jornada pela perfumada Itália. Para encerrar, selecionei uma casa de perfumes muito especial, a Acqua di Biella, dirigida por Chiara Cantolo, que tem mantido a tradição de sua família com uma das mais refinadas perfume houses da Itália. Acqua di Biella foi fundada em 1871, sinônimo de perfumaria de luxo com finas matérias-primas misturadas de forma artesanal, era frequentada e respeitada pelos intelectuais e aristocráticos. Desde então, mantêm-se na região de Piemonte, um cenário de rara beleza, com a clássica tradição que a tem sustentado por anos.Janca é a poesia perfumada do dia. A criação que, segundo Chiara, representa a "indomável alma que ela sempre admirou pela autenticidade e estilo,mas acima de tudo pela resolução e a paixão que alcança a independência". A fragrância também celebra a sensível e genuína feminilidade da mulher. Para expressar este conceito, o perfume foi nomeado como Janca, que é uma corrente de águas muito claras, praticamente cristalinas na região de Biella e que correm com a paixão de uma mulher Janca, cheia de vida e alegria de viver.
Na composição de Janca, expressar este conceito através da leveza e correnteza de transparentes águas não era exatamente o completo interior desta apaixonante mulher, era necessário imaginar este cenário com flores rasteiras próxims a estas águas e o natural doce aroma das frutas, emanando da natureza desta paisagem as emoções tão espontâneas desta mulher.Com isso,a fragrância abre um sofisticado blending de notas de írisflorentina, pêssego, tamarindo, mandarina, tília, osmanthus, magnólia, cardamono, almíscar, madeiras de cidra e patchouli.
Janca abre a exótica íris florentina como a primeira nota de uma sinfonia de emoções. O aroma floral fresco e silvestre de uma liberdade aromática se faz como a liberdade sonora de uma soprano, bastante peculiar, vibrante, apaixonante. O início de um mover cristalino de águas leves, as águas que recordam a imagem de Madama Butterfly aguardando Pinkerton, seu amado oficial da marinha, a liberdade do amor, da esperança de viver intensamente a emoção do estar junto a ele. Logo após este início clean, refinado com uma entrada floral espetacular, o perfume segue um desenrolar de notas florais com a doçura frutal e aveludada mais preponderante do pêssego os quais se envolvem umas às outras de forma magnífica, a flor Osmanthus,de origem japonesa como a gueixa Butterfly Cio-Cio-San demonstra a delicadeza das flores de uma civilização antiga enobrecendo a feminilidade, a sutil sedução porém encantadora destas mulheres japonesas de milenar beleza. A flor de magnólia, muito mais evidente quando comparada à de Osmanthus, e como toda flor de ornamentação, adorna Janca com a ternura de flores que abraçam outras flores para exalar sempre o mais perfumado dos aromas. Enfim, o drydown deste Acqua di Biella tem uma influência mais almiscarada, com a harmonia floral-frutal mais sóbria e tem um lado especiado de cardamono muito discreto.
Janca tem uma qualidade impressionante com relação às matérias-primas que o compõem formando os três pilares perfumísticos: flores-frutas-madeiras. É possível cheirar a qualidade de óleos essenciais muito bem trabalhados por homens deste ofício, aquela sensação divina de que o seu nariz está sendo presenteado com a finèsse dos aromas; por isso, tem a virtude que mais aprecio na perfumaria de nicho: qualidade excepcional de matérias fragrantes mais caras mas que garantem um aroma mais próximo da originalidade. Mesmo para um floral com nuances frutadas e amadeiradas, um cheiro que poderia ser elementar ou, extremamente, sintético na perfumaria fina; na perfumaria de nicho assume um aroma muito autêntico, quase onírico.
Janca, o perfume que escolhi para dar de presente à Madame Butterfly de Puccini, exatamente por alguns motivos que são específicos para qualquer mulher como a gueixa Cio-Cio-San: Uma mulher feminina com tanta arte, amor, mas também assolada pela tristeza e solidão; a mulher que, em seu coração, tem a sensação de sempre estar atrás do homem e não com ele; de perder a alegria de viver pela espera de fatores meramente externos; de alguma forma uma mulher autêntica que se perde e não encontra as águas correntes cristalinas que lhe trarão o regozijo; uma mulher que tem a feminilidade das mulheres japonesas que, aparentemente fragéis, são indomáveis em seus sentimentos assim como a indomável alma da mulher Janca, mas que precisam superar alguns obstáculos que as deixam na encruzilhada dos seus contrastes morais ou culturais.
A fragrância tem uma proposta muito diferente da trágica história de Cio-Cio-San e seu amor pelo oficial, além de ser diferente da própria suicida que Butterfly é, no entanto, a intenção é vestir a pele de Madame Butterfly com este lado apaixonante de Janca, dar-lhe um perfume alegre, fazendo brotar em seu jardim flores de Osmanthus, íris e magnólia, um cheiro de vida que a faça desistir de matar a si própria, que a faça voltar a viver, voltar a sorrir, voltar para dentro de si, com a independente e fervorosa paixão.
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(English version)
After a long olfactive journey in many Puccini's operas, this is the last experience of this wonderful travel to the fragrant Italy. To finalize it, I selected a very special perfume house, the Acqua di Biella, directed by Chiara Cantolo who has kept her familiar tradition in one of the most refined Italian perfume houses. Acqua di Biella was founded in 1871, synonym of luxury perfumery where the raw materials are blended by craftsmen, was frequented and respected by the intellectuals and aristocrats. From that time, the house is kept in the Piemont region, a landscape of rare beauty, with the classical tradition that has sustained Acqua di Biella for years.
Janca is the fragrant poetry of the day. The creation that, according to Chiara, represents the "indomitable soul of a woman she has always admired for the authenticity and style, but above all for the resolution and the passion with which she was able to state her independence". The fragrance also celebrates the sensitive and genuine femininity of the woman. In order to express this concept, the perfume was named as Janca, that is a torrent in the city of Biella, that has very clear waters, practically crystallines that rush with the passion of the Janca woman, full of life and joy.
In the composition of Janca, express this concept through the lightness and transparent watercourse was not exactly the complete innerside of this delightful woman, it was necessary to imagine this picture with crawling flowers near these waters and the sweet natural aroma of the fruits, emanating from the nature of this landscape , the spontaneous emotions of this woman. Therewith, the fragrance opens a sophisticated blending of florentin iris, peach, tamarind, mandarin, linden, osmanthus, magnolia, cardamon, musk, citron woods and patchouli.
Janca opens an exotic florentin iris as the first note of a symphon of emotions. The fresh-floral and sylvestral scent of an aromatic freedom makes itself as the sonorous freedom of a soprano, very peculiar, vibranting, enrapturing smell. The start of a crystalline moving of ligth waters, the waters that remind me of the image of Madama Butterfly waiting for Pinkerton, her beloved naval officer , the freedom of love, the hope of living intensely the emotion being closer to him. Later, after this clean beginning, refined with a spectacular floral opening, the perfume follows the progress of floral notes with a floral and velvety sweetness, more proeminent in peachy-scent that are envolved one to another in a magnificent manner, the flower of Osmanthus, originated in japonese lands as the geisha Butterfly Cio-Cio-San demonstrates the delicateness of the flowers coming from a old civilization ennobling the femininity, the sutile seduction yet enchanting of these japonese women of traditional beauty. The flower of magnolia, more evident when compared to the Osmanthus, as flower of ornamentation adorns Janca with the tenderness of flowers that hug others flowers to exhale always the most fragrant aroma. Finally, the drydown of this Acqua di Biella has a muskier influence, with the sober harmony floral-frutal and the spicy scent of cardamon, very discrete.
Janca has a impressive quality related to the raw materials that compose it, modelling the three fragrant sustainers : flowers-fruits-woods. It is possible to smell the quality of these essentials oils very well worked as craft, this divine sensation that the nose is being gifted by the finèsse of the aromas; because of that, Janca has the virtue that I appreciate in the niche perfumery: the outstanding quality of fragrant materials which are more expensive but assure a scent closer to the originality. Even for a floral with fruity and woody accords, a smell that would be basic or, extremely, synthetical in the fine perfumery; in the niche perfumery the scent is more authentic, almost oniric.
Janca, the fragrance that I select to give as gift for Madame Butterfly of Puccini, exactly for some reasons that are very specific for any woman as the geisha Cio-Cio-San: A feminine woman with art, with love, but also desolated by the sadness and the solitude; a woman who, in her heart, has the sensation that is always behind the man and not with him; who loses the joy of life waiting for the resolution of merely external factors; who even is an authentic woman, she loses herself and cannot find the clear torrent waters that will bring her the rejoicing; a woman who has the femininity of japonese women that are, apparently, fragile but are truly indomitable in their feelings as well as the indomitable soul of a Janca woman, but that still need to overcome some obstacles which let them in a crossroad of their moral and cultural contrasts.
The fragrance has a different suggestion in comparison to the tragical story of Cio-Cio-San and her love by the Pinkerton, moreover it is really different of the suicide smell that involved Butterfly, however the intention is to wear the skin of Madame Butterfly with this delightful smell of Janca, give to her a light-spirited fragrance, making bloom in her garden flowers of Osmanthus, iris and magnólia, a smell of life to make her give up of killing herself, come back to smile, come back to live , come back to her inside, with a independent and fervorous passion.
Janca is the fragrant poetry of the day. The creation that, according to Chiara, represents the "indomitable soul of a woman she has always admired for the authenticity and style, but above all for the resolution and the passion with which she was able to state her independence". The fragrance also celebrates the sensitive and genuine femininity of the woman. In order to express this concept, the perfume was named as Janca, that is a torrent in the city of Biella, that has very clear waters, practically crystallines that rush with the passion of the Janca woman, full of life and joy.
In the composition of Janca, express this concept through the lightness and transparent watercourse was not exactly the complete innerside of this delightful woman, it was necessary to imagine this picture with crawling flowers near these waters and the sweet natural aroma of the fruits, emanating from the nature of this landscape , the spontaneous emotions of this woman. Therewith, the fragrance opens a sophisticated blending of florentin iris, peach, tamarind, mandarin, linden, osmanthus, magnolia, cardamon, musk, citron woods and patchouli.
Janca opens an exotic florentin iris as the first note of a symphon of emotions. The fresh-floral and sylvestral scent of an aromatic freedom makes itself as the sonorous freedom of a soprano, very peculiar, vibranting, enrapturing smell. The start of a crystalline moving of ligth waters, the waters that remind me of the image of Madama Butterfly waiting for Pinkerton, her beloved naval officer , the freedom of love, the hope of living intensely the emotion being closer to him. Later, after this clean beginning, refined with a spectacular floral opening, the perfume follows the progress of floral notes with a floral and velvety sweetness, more proeminent in peachy-scent that are envolved one to another in a magnificent manner, the flower of Osmanthus, originated in japonese lands as the geisha Butterfly Cio-Cio-San demonstrates the delicateness of the flowers coming from a old civilization ennobling the femininity, the sutile seduction yet enchanting of these japonese women of traditional beauty. The flower of magnolia, more evident when compared to the Osmanthus, as flower of ornamentation adorns Janca with the tenderness of flowers that hug others flowers to exhale always the most fragrant aroma. Finally, the drydown of this Acqua di Biella has a muskier influence, with the sober harmony floral-frutal and the spicy scent of cardamon, very discrete.
Janca has a impressive quality related to the raw materials that compose it, modelling the three fragrant sustainers : flowers-fruits-woods. It is possible to smell the quality of these essentials oils very well worked as craft, this divine sensation that the nose is being gifted by the finèsse of the aromas; because of that, Janca has the virtue that I appreciate in the niche perfumery: the outstanding quality of fragrant materials which are more expensive but assure a scent closer to the originality. Even for a floral with fruity and woody accords, a smell that would be basic or, extremely, synthetical in the fine perfumery; in the niche perfumery the scent is more authentic, almost oniric.
Janca, the fragrance that I select to give as gift for Madame Butterfly of Puccini, exactly for some reasons that are very specific for any woman as the geisha Cio-Cio-San: A feminine woman with art, with love, but also desolated by the sadness and the solitude; a woman who, in her heart, has the sensation that is always behind the man and not with him; who loses the joy of life waiting for the resolution of merely external factors; who even is an authentic woman, she loses herself and cannot find the clear torrent waters that will bring her the rejoicing; a woman who has the femininity of japonese women that are, apparently, fragile but are truly indomitable in their feelings as well as the indomitable soul of a Janca woman, but that still need to overcome some obstacles which let them in a crossroad of their moral and cultural contrasts.
The fragrance has a different suggestion in comparison to the tragical story of Cio-Cio-San and her love by the Pinkerton, moreover it is really different of the suicide smell that involved Butterfly, however the intention is to wear the skin of Madame Butterfly with this delightful smell of Janca, give to her a light-spirited fragrance, making bloom in her garden flowers of Osmanthus, iris and magnólia, a smell of life to make her give up of killing herself, come back to smile, come back to live , come back to her inside, with a independent and fervorous passion.
VOTE FOR PERFUME DA ROSA NEGRA
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Photos: Janca bottle, ad flower Janca. Source: Acqua di Biella Madama Butterfly card. Source: Manitoba Opera Soprano Eiko Senda as Madama Butterfly . Source: Uol.com
Video of Madama Butterfly, an animated short from "L'opera Imaginaire" singing Un bel di, vedremo
A courtesy of Youtube.com
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