Cris Rosa Negra em uma entrevista exclusiva sobre aromas e perfumes
Cris Rosa Negra in an exclusive interview about aromas and perfumes
"A escritora de fragrâncias para Perfume Critic e Fragrantica, Cristiane Gonçalves ou Cris Rosa Negra, é proprietária e editora do blog Perfume da Rosa Negra, consultora e avaliadora global de perfumes para a indústria e aspirante perfumista da perfumaria do Oriente (Attars). Em entrevista para o Site de Beleza Não vivo sem cosméticos ela fala sobre como escolher um perfume que combina com a pele, tendências em aromas para estações frias, o que observar ao comprar perfumes importados e o que há de especial nas fragrâncias naturais. "
Confira a entrevista integral em português no site, clicando aqui
(artigo pela jornalista Andréa Luz)
(English version for international readers)
"The fragrance writer for Perfume Critic and Fragrantica, Cristiane Gonçalves or Cris Rosa Negra, is owner and editor of the Perfume blog Perfume da Rosa Negra, global fragrance evaluator and consultant on industry and aspiring perfumer of East perfumery (Attars). During her interview for the Beauty Site Não vivo sem cosméticos she tells us about how selecting a fragrance that fits to the skin, scent trendies for cold seasons, what it is necessary to observe when buying import fragrances and what is special in natural fragrances."
(article by journalist Andréa Luz)
NC - Do you think that someone has to know something about perfumery to find out what type of fragrance best fit to his/her skin and personality?
Cris Rosa Negra - It is not necessary to know deeply about perfumery , however it is good to be aware about something, visiting specific sites and blogs about fragrances, in addition to that read printed guides and articles released about this issue may help you at the time of selecting a fragrance and also to have more intimacy with the perfume and its development on skin. The tip is to sample them deeply and in a calmer way ( it is suitable three fragrances per day, avoiding your nose of smelling overly different scents) and observe how these fragrances develop on skin, if the result is satisfactory for your personal tastes, seasons and occasions. The best "thermometer" is ourselves: the skin will "dialogue" with the perfume and will signalize us through an addictive sensation, of delight and comfort.
NC - Which are trendies for female and male fragrances for this Autumn/Winter?
Cris Rosa Negra - I prefer not to say that there are trendies for each season, but simply to say that there are general trendies and they are not always the basis to validate a personal and conscious purchase of perfumes. Nowadays, the releases are focused on versatile fragrances connected to the urban life, the cosmopolitan rush, the images of the big cities and also releases of mysterious and intimate scents or, I can say, "dark be" (those who remind us of the blackness as vetiver, patchouli, incense and notes such as black rose, black orchid, black truffle and a pungent amber). There is a trendy of exclusive and/or private collection such as Tom Ford Private Blend, Hermès, Armani Privé, Dior, Les Exclusifs Chanel, Marc Jacobs Splashs, Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactivs. In this miscellaneous, there are oriental floral and floral fruity for women and woody floral and oriental woody for men. White and dark flowers, fresh, dried, lactonic fruits, exotic woods, resins as amber, peppery chords such as black pepper and spicies are common for warmer fragrances.
NC - But is it necessary to pay attention on the year season at the time of perfuming ourselves?
Cris Rosa Negra - Each consumer has to search for a fragrance which is aligned to his/her wellness, joining with that, a fragrance which combines with the year season in order to not have some scent so disconnected. Here in Brazil, select fresh, florals and aromatics fragrances during Spring/Summer and oriental, woody, spicy and incense fragrances during Autumn/Winter. In the coldest days, I suggest the female oriental floral, with a woody or ambery base with the presence of rare woods and/or the softness of the vanilla with amber (Bvlgari Jasmin Noir is a good example). For men, unfortunately, there are not so many interesting releases which are really distinctive in the last months, but Dior Homme follows an interesting trendy which is the use of flowers as an imporant raw material in male fragrances. In this perfume, the iris has a main role, resulting in a beautiful and versatile perfume for these seasons.
NC - Which are the most appropriate fragrances to the Brazilian weather?
NC - Which are the most appropriate fragrances to the Brazilian weather?
Cris Rosa Negra - It depends on where you live in Brazil. In general, light, refreshing and versatile fragrances, florals, fruity and citrusy ones should be wear during the day. In the evening and night, it is suitable to wear oriental and woody fragrances, more seductive, but not containing too much vanilla, incense, spicies and woodies , all depending on the climate of the city. To follow the good sense is always the best to make.
NC- Is there something special tip to buy fragrances overseas or import ones?
Cris Rosa Negra - Yes, when you don't know the perfume, it is more difficult to check out if the fragrance is fake or not, therefore search always for idoneous stores to escape from the famous quote " what is cheap may become expensive". Buy always in reliable places, know the origin of the product, its quality and the suitability of the store. In Brazil, import fragrances in idoneous stores present the stamp of ADIPEC that guarantees the perfume originality. Overseas, you should buy in big retail stores which are known by selling authentic beauty products like Sephora, Saks and others. Free-shop stores in airports have the advantage of offering lower prices before you enter in the country and, if the circumstance is appropriate to the brand you are looking for, buy direct in the own stores of some perfume houses such as Hermès, Chanel, Shiseido, etc. It is important to remember that a fake fragrance, besides the bad quality, potentially it may cause some allergic reactions. If one problem of this type happens with you, the manufacturer will not take the responsability for any solution or reimbursement and the consumer will lose the fragrance and the chance of claiming or complaining about anything.
NC - Why is more difficult to find organic and natural fragrances?
Cris Rosa Negra - The natural fragrances are composed by botanicals raw materials, of high quality and synthetics-free. These ingredients are expensive, but they are worth each penny because the final result is a fragrance with a peculiar olfactive power, more concentrated and pure, with an excellent long lasting power and a captivating sillage (that is the quality of the scent lingers for more time ). Truly, they are fragrances of the nature.
Nor every artisan perfumer who works with natural raw materials is a 100% natural nose, there are recognised perfumers who use the basis of the natural perfumery but also include syntheticals in their fragrance compositions, no matter if for a personal option in the creative process or for a costs option for their business. Apart from that, the natural perfumery means a high investment to the perfumers of this field, so much in the composition, production and distribution. Usually, the structure of their natural perfumery business is very artisan and small, even if it is very professional and well-known, consequently the sales process is different. Fragrances for the masses have leading companies always ahead in the market, huge investments in synthetic raw materials for a cheaper costs and an aggresive position of marketing. The advantage of the natural perfumery, however, is that it allows us other type of olfactive experience, unsual against the conventional perfumes, for that reason, it is fascinating and genuinely more aromatic in its essence.
Photo credits: Cristiane Gonçalves aka Cris Rosa Negra. Personal archive.